Kanaky (New Caledonia)

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2005.

Kanaky is the locals' name for New Caledonia. Kanaky - the land of the Kanaks. In the center of Nouméa you'll find a spot that has been constructed for, and as an homage to, the Kanaks (pictured above). Of Kanaky's 200 000 or so inhabitants, the Kanaks make up the largest cultural group at 42.5% of the population. The island still belongs to them, in theory (but far from in practice). Unlike what has happened to the American Indians and the Australian Aboriginals, the culture has not been entirely stripped from the Kanaks. Their 32 dialects are still alive, they follow their own customs and laws, they still live in "cases" (huts), but they are also integrated in schools, and less so in the workplace. My feeling is that their land is exploited (for nickel) and that they are little compensated. They are often less qualified for the better jobs in New Caledonia and suffer from poverty and alcoholism. But the fact that their culture still lives gives me hope that they will one day regain possession and power of their homeland.

Spot the Tourist!

My mom visited all the way from Florida some weeks ago and a wonderful time was had by all. We made another visit to Phare Amédée, visited the Parc Forestier and enjoyed a guided visit of the Centre Tjibaou. Pablo joined us on all these outings (as captured above) at the ripe old age of 6-8 weeks old. Born here, I guess he doesn't really count as a tourist, but we do stand out in New Caledonia. Maybe it is our pale skin, our reddish hair, our metropolitan clothes. Maybe it is the money we bring to the island, our English-speaking ways, our love of this place. But no matter, we love it here, minorities or no.

Alternative Sleeping Arrangements in Nouméa

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Does swaying in a hammock on a South Pacific island tempt you in times of stress? Here in New Caledonia we have hammocks of all shapes, sizes and colours. Pablo's life is far from terribly stressful (apart from when his mother jumps and shouts when France scores a goal in the World Cup). To combat boredom with sleeping in a crib, Pablo also sleeps outside in his hammock, as pictured above. Oh to be a baby. Oh to have a hammock. Oh to live on an island in the South Pacific!

Sounds Pablo Hears in New Caledonia

As Pablo and I were walking on the seaside promenade one morning this week, I started thinking about what life must sound like to him (and how it must differ for children growing up in Paris, as Sophie did). Here are the sounds I think he hears, in chronological order:

1. Mother singing "Good Morning, Good Morning" in her best Debbie Reynolds voice.
2. Deafening birdsong.
3. Doors opening and closing. Screen door being pulled to.
4. Toilet flushing.
   
5. Flip-flops on the tile.
6. Cereal pouring, toast toasting, coffee brewing, fridge opening and closing.
7. Water running.
8. Dishes clanking.
9. Sing-song voice of mother showing him the world.
10. His own grunting, cooing, squealing, shouting and crying.
11. Sophie's "You're Going to Live, Pablo" voice.
12. Laughter.
13. Diaper being unscratched.
14. Snaps being snapped.
15. Kisses in ears.
16. Music: Mozart, Vivaldi, Bach and lullabies.
17. Washing machine filling and shaking. \Car engine.
18. Waves gently crashing.
19. Palms rustling.
20. Wind.
21. Rain.
22. Cars driving by, motorcycles too.
23. Voices, quiet voices.
24. Footsteps, wheels turning.
25. Cat meowing.
26. Cat food being poured.
27. Music on the mobile, music in the play gym.
28. Windows log-on jingle, skype jingle.
29. Typing.
30. Drawers opening and closing.
31. Voices from far away.
32. Drum sticks being gathered up, drum pads being tapped.
33. Bath running.
34. Water splashing.
35. Papa's deep happy voice.
36. Bottle caps being unscrewed.
37. Pump pumping.
38. Pots and pans being pulled out, put away.
39. Phone ringing.
40. Football being commentated on the TV.
41. Low voices talking about the world.
42. Pages being turned.
43. Lights being switched off (and on).

I've been told that it is very quiet here. Maybe it doesn't "sound" like it, but I assure you it is. Think about all the different sounds you hear every day, wherever you are. Do you have only 43?