This blog on New Caledonia is for those of you who ever wondered what life on a tiny island in the South Pacific might be like. Tired of bracing winter winds, the stress of an inner city or simply dreaming of a life change? This is a blog about what happens when, in the words of Yogi Berra, "you come to a fork in the road, [and] take it".

04 August 2012

New Caledonia Today

We've just landed in New Caledonia again after 5 years in Europe. This blog recounts our adventures in New Caledonia from 2005 to 2007 - a wonderful time. It is full of fantastic photos, tales of sea snakes and island life.

For more up to date information on life in New Caledonia, see New Caledonia Today. We hope to keep you as entertained and informed with our new blog as we did just years ago! 

10 June 2008

Sojourn in the South Pacific Blog: How to Find What You are Looking For

This blog is about life in New Caledonia. I lived there from 2005 to 2007 and wrote about the experience whenever I could. Here you will find information about daily life in Nouméa; visits to Lifou, Maré, Ouvéa and Ile des Pins; and tales of the early childhood of our son, Pablo and the teenage years of his sister, Sophie.

If you are looking for something in particular about New Caledonia here, you can:
  • Type keywords into the search box at the top left of your screen; the search will return anything I've written about your topic.
  • Browse the categories under "Labels" on the left-hand side of your screen.

  • Send me an e-mail at julie.harrisguiader@gmail.com.

I am a writer/editor/webber who now lives in Paris, but who would most likely jump at the drop of a hat at the chance to return to Nouméa. We spent two magical years there and would recommend a visit or a move to anyone who has the vaguest interest in trying life on a tiny South Pacific island.

Hoping you enjoy your visit, be it virtual or real. Drop me a line and tell me how it went!

28 November 2007

New Caledonia Newcomer's Guide: 2008 edition

If you are looking for good, solid information on moving to and/or living in New Caledonia, I highly suggest the New Caledonia Newcomer's Guide. This free 26-page guide was updated, researched and compiled by a team of local English-speaking expatriate contributors. The guide touches on such topics as:
  • Recommended Reading
  • Getting Around New Caledonia
  • Driver’s Licence
  • The Magnificent Mobilis (mobile/cell phones)
  • Learning French
  • Do’s and Don’ts
  • Carte de Sejour
  • Finding a Place to Live
  • Health Concerns
  • Medical Care
  • Childcare
  • Culture Shock
  • How To Handle Culture Shock
  • Shopping For Food
  • Recommended Pastry Shops
  • Shopping For Home
  • Shopping For Clothes
  • Saving Money
  • Local Expressions
  • Useful Tips for Tropical Transformation
  • Creepy Crawlies and Other Tropical Delights
  • Poverty
  • Hobbies and Clubs
  • Places to Volunteer
  • Fun Places to Spend the Day
  • Vacations
  • Who Succeeds Abroad?
A 1997 Newcomer's Guide also exists, but this 2008 edition is a much-needed addition to the limited information you will find on living in New Caledonia (many thanks to Jo Ann for sharing this!).

Happy reading!

07 November 2007

Setting up House in New Caledonia

Are you wondering what it is like to move across the world and set up house on a remote island in the South Pacific?

Do you have specific questions about moving to New Caledonia?

It's been a couple of years since we did it, but our friend David and his family are just now moving in in Noumea, and David is doing a marvelous job describing the process on his blog at Trekking Greener Grasses.

Take a look at his tales and see his photos of market life, hiking in Noumea and the trials and tribulations of transitioning into a life of palm trees, early mornings and things going right - and wrong!

Bienvenue en Nouvelle Caledonie, David and Gang. Welcome to New Caledonia!

28 October 2007

Horseback Riding in New Caledonia

Little did we know, one can (and should) go horseriding in New Caledonia. The terrain and the weather are perfect for it - and there are clubs for all levels. Plus, New Caledonia has what is left of the real outback cowboys, or so it seems to me.

Our last weekend in New Caledonia, we indeed went horseback riding - at Yala Ranch in Dumbea, just outside Noumea.

I had been up on a horse once or twice at school when I was younger and had been traumatised (as I am wont to do by anything bigger or faster than myself). Laurent had ridden a few times before.

Yala Ranch turned out to be the perfect place to go. We spent a couple of hours on the horses, riding through the river, climbing a gentle hill, getting a lay of the land. The guides were very friendly and reassuring - and though Laurent was nearly thrown (he loves to tease the horses), I managed to stay on my horse.

There are several options for horseriding in New Caledonia. I would encourage you to give it a try - for those days when it feels a little too cool (under 20 degrees) to go scuba diving.

26 October 2007

Kitesurfing Season in New Caledonia

Now is about the time of year when one sees a million and one kitesurfers in Noumea (right next to the Meridien Hotel). This video was shot in 2005 by Laurent Guiader, the year we stumbled on an International Kitesurfing Competition.

Watching this makes me want to take the next flight to Noumea, whether it takes 40 hours to get there or not!

21 October 2007

New Caledonian Music Featured on "South Pacific Islands"

For those of you who are wondering what New Caledonian music is like, I'd highly recommend "South Pacific Islands", a Putumayo World Music compilation.

The three New Caledonian songs featured on the CD (Nengone Nodegu, Co Era So, and Watolea) are those you hear frequently on the radio in New Caledonia and they are certain to get you up out of your chair away from your screen, or at least a toe-tapping.

For a snippet of these songs, go to the Amazon site and click on one of the songs under "Listen to Samples".

Added bonus: "Co Era So" is available as a music video on the album: you can get a glimpse of our local culture.

I do recommend buying the CD - not only for the New Caledonian music, but the other music from places like New Zealand and Papua New Guinea. On grey days, no matter where you are, this CD will brighten your day.

*My thanks to Caitlin for sending this to me in Paris ... we listen to it nearly every day!

19 October 2007

Looking to Buy or Sell Something in New Caledonia?

Try one of the various free online classified sites available in New Caledonia. You can buy or sell anything from a car to a boat to a baby bed to a computer. Okay, eBay and Craig's List are still to come to the South Pacific, but these sites proved very helpful to us a few months back:

As the population turns over every couple of years (military rotation), you can often find great deals. Definitely worth a browse, as most things on the island are expensive, purchased new.

Occasionally you will find things described in English, but if you need help translating the French, try any of the available online translators to give you a general gist, e.g. Babelfish.

And for currency conversion, try http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Now, speaking of things for sale in New Caledonia, anyone interested in buying our Peugot 206? :)

16 October 2007

Video: An Afternoon in Noumea

Many people ask me what New Caledonia is really like and are often surprised to learn that we have modern, French hospitals, good schools and a few big supermarkets. Life is not as backward on this little island in the South Pacific as one might think ...

For a snapshot of the New Caledonia's capital, Noumea, watch the 7-minute video below. It captures some of the main sights, shows our views, and even pictures our slums (yes, we do have people who live in wooden shacks). You'll also find pictures from our famous Tjibaou Cultural Center, an architectural marvel.

My thanks to "crankycross" for filming and posting this on YouTube in May, 2007.

14 October 2007

Missing Anse Vata

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

We miss this, of all places. This is the Anse Vata ... I've written about it several times before on this blog. This is a long stretch of beach in Noumea which is particularly windy, and particularly beautiful - with its turquoise waters, white sands, and green slopes.

Pablo and I used to walk it frequently. Just after he was born, we walked it nearly every day with our friends Caitlin and Dorian. When they moved to La Reunion, we continued to walk it, but less frequently. I occasionally ran along it, and his father ran along it three times a week.

This is where Pablo really learned to walk (I would bring him down here to walk in the sand), this is where I sometimes went at 7 in the morning when Pablo wasn't sleeping, this is where we met friends, and where we often walked on the weekends.

Do we walk as much in Paris? I wish we did, but it is not nearly as warm and inviting in Paris. We are not used to the palava of having to bundle up, dodge other people and pushchairs, or navigate narrow sidewalks. We are not used to the sounds of the buses and cars and beeping horns. But never fear, we do walk, and even find ourselves at the base of the Eiffel Tower, on the Champs de Mars.

24 September 2007

Writing from Across the World

I was so used to writing to you all from the edge of the planet, from a tiny island in the South Pacific, hours before you awoke (9-10 hours ahead of Paris, 18-19 hours ahead of Los Angeles).

Now I am writing to you from Paris, about life in New Caledonia, having left it a month ago. I feel as if I am hovering above it, as if our two years in Noumea were a dream.

I am back on Paris time and wishing at times that I were ahead again, in New Caledonia, walking the beaches, enjoying the spring, planning our summer outings.

Alas. Life moves on, and so do we. But the good news is that I still have things to finish up on New Caledonia and will be posting them here over the next few weeks ... (so if you have any questions about life on this little island, now is your moment!).

And then ... a new blog ... from Paris, about life in Paris, among other things. When the blog is up and running, I'll post its link here.

In the meantime, wherever you are, I hope you are happy and living your dream.

09 August 2007

New Caledonia's Local Art and Souvenirs

"Les couleurs de Tina" is one of our favourite little market stalls in Noumea. A local artist sells his superb island paintings for next to nothing (1000-1500 francs - or EUR 8.38-12.57) here.

He reminds me of all the portrait artists in Montmartre at the Place de Tertre. The difference is yes, his subject (island scenes and animals), and the fact that he is one of the only artists displaying his paintings in a public place (unlike the millions in Paris' Montmartre).

For the little he charges, I would definitely recommend his paintings as souvenirs to take home. They are both original and beautiful - and definitely better than a postcard!

07 August 2007

Far-Flung Roots in New Caledonia

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Ah, some of my favourite trees here in New Caledonia: the banyan trees. You'll find these right in downtown Noumea, next to the police station, on "bank street" (where all the banks are). I marvel at them every time I pass them - how is it that one can live with one's roots above ground?

Laurent was kind enough to take photos of them for me - as in some small way they seem to symbolise us and our short visit on the island. Roots far-flung and above ground: I was born in America, but have lived abroad for years; Laurent has lived outside of his native France on many an occasion; Sophie was born in France, but has travelled the world - and is half American; Pablo was born on this island, soon to live in Europe, a mere 22 000 kms away.

We are uprooted by our own choice this time (okay, poor Pablo has to follow along for the moment - and okay, we would all rather stay), but like these majestic trees, we will continue to grow and prosper.

Every time I pass these trees, I thank them for the reminder.


05 August 2007

Sophie Update

Sophie is as wonderful as ever. Here she is with glasses! Yes, her eyes were hurting - and watering and itching and the whole hoo-ha - and so the eye doctor thought we might try glasses. Besides making her look incredibly cool and sophisticated, they have also stopped her eyes hurting. A definite plus!

Grades for the second semester will end on Friday, 10 August. Sophie has been working hard and has an average of 16.2 in French (out of 20). We are still waiting on the other grades, but the official report card will be released after we leave New Caledonia. We have a friend who will fax them to Paris for us.

Cross your fingers for Sophie that she will be able to skip ahead to the next grade in Paris in September. She will have missed the last semester of 10th grade, but she has taken classes on the side in math and physics with the hope that there will be no hiccups in skipping ahead. Sophie would like to specialise in science (BAC S) these next two years - a lot of hard work, but infinitely interesting!

Think of Sophie, too, over the next few weeks - she will have a very brief break from 21 August to 4 September and will be leaving her many friends and terrific boyfriend, Max, on 21 August. New Caledonia is so far away from France!

Of course we know time will fly and we will see Max again soon - won't we, Max? :)

03 August 2007

Garden Fun

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

2.5 weeks left in our beautiful house with our beautiful garden on the bay.

Pablo and I are taking full advantage of our last few weeks. Outside nearly every day, we explore the bushes (he climbed the hibiscus last week - and a tree this week, with my help), the hills (sliding down on our hinies), the flowers, the mud and under the car. Oh the fun we have scaring Mommy half to death looking for that special pebble just underneath, right there, just out of reach ... under the middle of the car.

Pablo is in heaven here in our garden. He explores to his heart's content. His little legs have the scratches to prove it, but no matter, that's what being a little boy in New Caledonia is all about.


01 August 2007

Harry Potter Arrives in New Caledonia

"Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows", the last of the Harry Potter series, arrived at our house Monday night, 30 July. Sophie and I jumped up and down, screamed and hollered, shook the house and both Laurent and Pablo thought a catastrophe had struck. But no: pure excitement!

Pre-ordered from amazon.co.uk back in March, it was shipped on the release date, 21 July, and arrived a mere 9 days later! That is fast for mail to New Caledonia!

Sophie is already 100 pages in - and I've read the first chapter (we are switching off: normally we buy 2 copies, but we won't have a lot of room in our luggage when we leave in 3 weeks, so 1 copy it was). I just finished rereading Harry Potter 6 ("Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince") and so my memory is refreshed and full of fun Harry Potter facts.

Now - the question is: how many other HP7s are there in New Caledonia? Must go see if they are selling them at the grocery store ...

30 July 2007

New Caledonia's Online Phonebook

A resource we use all the time here in New Caledonia is its phonebook. It contains helpful maps that show all of Noumea's one-way streets (no other maps seem to do so!), restaurant advertisements (it is hard to know about them otherwise, strangely enough) and of course professional addresses, like doctors and dentists.

I had never been much of a phonebook user (I seem to look everything up on line), but moving to New Caledonia changed things. New Caledonians are from the old offline world - and living here one realises how much faster a simple phonebook is (find it, open it up, figure out the French for "doctor" - medecin- and away you go).

As our phonebooks are packed up and on a slow boat to China (they make great souvenirs - and serve as proof that we were here!), I am now using the online version of the phonebook. Though helpful, it is somehow not as good.

With a paper version, you can see tangential and yet relevant companies and services. Online, you have to know the name of the company or the category -- and the categories are bizarre here. I can never seem to get my category right. Plus, you cannot type in an address to find a company (which is very useful as you may know the street but not the company name).

Maybe the online version just isn't user-friendly enough yet - or maybe I expect too much.

In any case, if any of you are looking for friends, family or companies in New Caledonia, go to www.opt.nc, right-hand side.
  • If you are looking for a person, type in the last name under "nom", the first name under "prenom", select the city and click on "rechercher".
  • If you are looking for a company, click on "pages professionelles" and you will be taken to a page where you can type in the name of the company, or a category and the city.
Have fun - and let us know if you find the online version easy or not.

27 July 2007

Rock of Contention: Free French and Americans at War in New Caledonia, 1940-1945

For those of you interested in the American influence on New Caledonia (which was, in truth, a bone of contention with the French government), I recommend Kim Munholland's "Rock of Contention: Free French and Americans at War in New Caledonia, 1940-1945".


The following excerpts are from a review of the book by Robert Aldrich, University of Sydney in H-France Review Vol. 6 (April 2006), No. 47:

Rock of contention

"The Americans, under the command of General Patch and then Admiral Halsey, overwhelmed New Caledonia with their men and machines. The presence of tens of thousands of soldiers and their matériel, the demands they made on local accommodation, the largesse of American dollars and the military exigencies they imposed all grated on the French. De Gaulle and his comrades in London reacted angrily to what they saw as the bossiness of American officers and to what they feared was Washington’s aim of taking over the French colony at the end of the war.

The French governors, in the American perspective, placed obstacles in their way, even to the point that an American official thought that one governor ought to be charged with abetting the enemy.

The French, on their side, sometimes said that the Americans posed more of a threat to New Caledonia than did the Japanese.

In fact, as Munholland justly points out, two priorities clashed: the American determination to take whatever measures necessary to win the war in the Pacific, the French determination to keep control over New Caledonia and to retain sovereignty over their overseas empire."

The American influence on the ground

"The American presence could not but bring great changes, at least temporarily, to New Caledonia. 'One might have said the Martians had landed' one Kanak student is reported as remarking.

The population of Nouméa soared, especially as the Americans put up Quonset huts, built an airport and constructed a “mini-Pentagon” at a beachside suburb. GI’s spent dollars lavishly for food, drink and other entertainments--86 bars opened in Nouméa during the war, and by 1944, the Trade Winds bar (*) alone sold 18,000 beers and 5,100 hamburgers a day ...

Many Melanesians were astounded at the sight of African American troops in positions of responsibility (despite the segregation practiced by the US Army). Many Kanak, and Asians, found employment with the Americans, and were even paid for their work--Kanak had been required by the French to donate free labour for public works projects. Although only a quarter of the Melanesians had held paid jobs before the war, during the American years two-thirds had such an experience.

Similarly, many of the Caldoches benefited from the American presence and the opportunities it provided; the Spanish-born head of the local Communist Party (and a Republican in the Spanish Civil War) sold bootleg liquor to US soldiers for what they claimed were exorbitant prices."

* Readers may recall that we know of someone who worked at the Trade Winds ... Lucie Agez.

My thanks once again to Marc ("Le Cagou") for sharing this with us.

25 July 2007

President Marie-Noelle Themerau Steps Down

The President of New Caledonia, Marie-Noelle Themereau, resigned yesterday, 24 July.

Elected president of New Caledonia in 2004, Ms. Themereau had given plenty of warning she intended to leave politics.

The resignation means that New Caledonia's Cabinet is now dissolved, and its members will form a caretaker government.

Within 14 days, the national congress has to decide which of the country's politicians will make up the new government, and who will hold which portfolio.

The new cabinet then decides who amongst them will be president.

23 July 2007

Consequences of the American Presence in New Caledonia

A bridge built by the US army, Poya, New Caledonia

On 12 March 1942, a large convoy of 17 000 American army soldiers, under the orders of General Patch, landed in Noumea - which then became Pacific headquarters (to stop the advance of the Japanese during World War II).

Airports were built (Tontouta, Gaiacs Plain). Amunition and gasoline filled all possible ports, medical clinics were installed at Anse Vata, Conception, Dumbea, north of Bourail, on the coast and in the far north.

What tremendous upset to the country's daily life! After having endured a period of food rationing, here is what was distributed all over the island:
  • Chocolate.
  • Chewing gum.
  • Ice cream.
  • And, last but not least, whiskey!
The Americans also introduced modern farming. They cleared land with a bulldozer and planted crops with machines. They also worked with the tribes - who received salaries in dollars for the first time.

In 1944, military operations began to distance itself from New Caledonia. 1946 marked the departure of the last GIs and the return of the volunteers.

- Translated loosely from a text used in a 2005 BEP history-geography exam in New Caledonia. The subject: "What are the consequences of the American presence in New Caledonia?" (Source: Bulletin d'accueil, Vice-Rectorat de la Nouvelle-Caledonie)

Special thanks to Marc ("Le Cagou") for sharing this with us.