Sojourn in the South Pacific

Sojourn in the South Pacific Blog: How to Find What You are Looking For

2008-06-10T04:15:00.004+11:00

This blog is about life in New Caledonia. I lived there from 2005 to 2007 and wrote about the experience whenever I could. Here you will find information about daily life in Nouméa; visits to Lifou, Maré, Ouvéa and Ile des Pins; and tales of the early childhood of our son, Pablo and the teenage years of his sister, Sophie.

If you are looking for something in particular about New Caledonia here, you can:

Type keywords into the search box at the top left of your screen; the search will return anything I've written about your topic.
Browse the categories under "Labels" on the left-hand side of your screen.

Send me an e-mail at julie.harrisguiader@gmail.com.

I am a writer/editor/webber who now lives in Paris, but who would most likely jump at the drop of a hat at the chance to return to Nouméa. We spent two magical years there and would recommend a visit or a move to anyone who has the vaguest interest in trying life on a tiny South Pacific island.

Hoping you enjoy your visit, be it virtual or real. Drop me a line and tell me how it went!

New Caledonia Newcomer's Guide: 2008 edition

2007-11-28T04:13:00.001+11:00

If you are looking for good, solid information on moving to and/or living in New Caledonia, I highly suggest the New Caledonia Newcomer's Guide. This free 26-page guide was updated, researched and compiled by a team of local English-speaking expatriate contributors. The guide touches on such topics as:

Recommended Reading
Getting Around New Caledonia
Driver’s Licence
The Magnificent Mobilis (mobile/cell phones)
Learning French
Do’s and Don’ts
Carte de Sejour
Finding a Place to Live
Health Concerns
Medical Care
Childcare
Culture Shock
How To Handle Culture Shock
Shopping For Food
Recommended Pastry Shops
Shopping For Home
Shopping For Clothes
Saving Money
Local Expressions
Useful Tips for Tropical Transformation
Creepy Crawlies and Other Tropical Delights
Poverty
Hobbies and Clubs
Places to Volunteer
Fun Places to Spend the Day
Vacations
Who Succeeds Abroad?

A 1997 Newcomer's Guide also exists, but this 2008 edition is a much-needed addition to the limited information you will find on living in New Caledonia (many thanks to Jo Ann for sharing this!).

Happy reading!

Setting up House in New Caledonia

2007-11-07T04:39:00.000+11:00

Are you wondering what it is like to move across the world and set up house on a remote island in the South Pacific?

Do you have specific questions about moving to New Caledonia?

It's been a couple of years since we did it, but our friend David and his family are just now moving in in Noumea, and David is doing a marvelous job describing the process on his blog at Trekking Greener Grasses.

Take a look at his tales and see his photos of market life, hiking in Noumea and the trials and tribulations of transitioning into a life of palm trees, early mornings and things going right - and wrong!

Bienvenue en Nouvelle Caledonie, David and Gang. Welcome to New Caledonia!

Horseback Riding in New Caledonia

2007-10-28T16:16:00.000+11:00

Little did we know, one can (and should) go horseriding in New Caledonia. The terrain and the weather are perfect for it - and there are clubs for all levels. Plus, New Caledonia has what is left of the real outback cowboys, or so it seems to me.

Our last weekend in New Caledonia, we indeed went horseback riding - at Yala Ranch in Dumbea, just outside Noumea.

I had been up on a horse once or twice at school when I was younger and had been traumatised (as I am wont to do by anything bigger or faster than myself). Laurent had ridden a few times before.

Yala Ranch turned out to be the perfect place to go. We spent a couple of hours on the horses, riding through the river, climbing a gentle hill, getting a lay of the land. The guides were very friendly and reassuring - and though Laurent was nearly thrown (he loves to tease the horses), I managed to stay on my horse.

There are several options for horseriding in New Caledonia. I would encourage you to give it a try - for those days when it feels a little too cool (under 20 degrees) to go scuba diving.

Kitesurfing Season in New Caledonia

2007-10-26T02:19:00.000+11:00

Now is about the time of year when one sees a million and one kitesurfers in Noumea (right next to the Meridien Hotel). This video was shot in 2005 by Laurent Guiader, the year we stumbled on an International Kitesurfing Competition.

Watching this makes me want to take the next flight to Noumea, whether it takes 40 hours to get there or not!

New Caledonian Music Featured on "South Pacific Islands"

2007-10-21T04:25:00.000+11:00

For those of you who are wondering what New Caledonian music is like, I'd highly recommend "South Pacific Islands", a Putumayo World Music compilation.

The three New Caledonian songs featured on the CD (Nengone Nodegu, Co Era So, and Watolea) are those you hear frequently on the radio in New Caledonia and they are certain to get you up out of your chair away from your screen, or at least a toe-tapping.

For a snippet of these songs, go to the Amazon site and click on one of the songs under "Listen to Samples".

Added bonus: "Co Era So" is available as a music video on the album: you can get a glimpse of our local culture.

I do recommend buying the CD - not only for the New Caledonian music, but the other music from places like New Zealand and Papua New Guinea. On grey days, no matter where you are, this CD will brighten your day.

*My thanks to Caitlin for sending this to me in Paris ... we listen to it nearly every day!

Looking to Buy or Sell Something in New Caledonia?

2007-10-19T04:15:00.000+11:00

Try one of the various free online classified sites available in New Caledonia. You can buy or sell anything from a car to a boat to a baby bed to a computer. Okay, eBay and Craig's List are still to come to the South Pacific, but these sites proved very helpful to us a few months back:

As the population turns over every couple of years (military rotation), you can often find great deals. Definitely worth a browse, as most things on the island are expensive, purchased new.

Occasionally you will find things described in English, but if you need help translating the French, try any of the available online translators to give you a general gist, e.g. Babelfish.

And for currency conversion, try http://www.xe.com/ucc/

Now, speaking of things for sale in New Caledonia, anyone interested in buying our Peugot 206? :)

Video: An Afternoon in Noumea

2007-10-16T03:55:00.000+11:00

Many people ask me what New Caledonia is really like and are often surprised to learn that we have modern, French hospitals, good schools and a few big supermarkets. Life is not as backward on this little island in the South Pacific as one might think ...

For a snapshot of the New Caledonia's capital, Noumea, watch the 7-minute video below. It captures some of the main sights, shows our views, and even pictures our slums (yes, we do have people who live in wooden shacks). You'll also find pictures from our famous Tjibaou Cultural Center, an architectural marvel.

My thanks to "crankycross" for filming and posting this on YouTube in May, 2007.

Missing Anse Vata

2007-10-14T04:41:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

We miss this, of all places. This is the Anse Vata ... I've written about it several times before on this blog. This is a long stretch of beach in Noumea which is particularly windy, and particularly beautiful - with its turquoise waters, white sands, and green slopes.

Pablo and I used to walk it frequently. Just after he was born, we walked it nearly every day with our friends Caitlin and Dorian. When they moved to La Reunion, we continued to walk it, but less frequently. I occasionally ran along it, and his father ran along it three times a week.

This is where Pablo really learned to walk (I would bring him down here to walk in the sand), this is where I sometimes went at 7 in the morning when Pablo wasn't sleeping, this is where we met friends, and where we often walked on the weekends.

Do we walk as much in Paris? I wish we did, but it is not nearly as warm and inviting in Paris. We are not used to the palava of having to bundle up, dodge other people and pushchairs, or navigate narrow sidewalks. We are not used to the sounds of the buses and cars and beeping horns. But never fear, we do walk, and even find ourselves at the base of the Eiffel Tower, on the Champs de Mars.

Writing from Across the World

2007-09-24T07:54:00.001+11:00

I was so used to writing to you all from the edge of the planet, from a tiny island in the South Pacific, hours before you awoke (9-10 hours ahead of Paris, 18-19 hours ahead of Los Angeles).

Now I am writing to you from Paris, about life in New Caledonia, having left it a month ago. I feel as if I am hovering above it, as if our two years in Noumea were a dream.

I am back on Paris time and wishing at times that I were ahead again, in New Caledonia, walking the beaches, enjoying the spring, planning our summer outings.

Alas. Life moves on, and so do we. But the good news is that I still have things to finish up on New Caledonia and will be posting them here over the next few weeks ... (so if you have any questions about life on this little island, now is your moment!).

And then ... a new blog ... from Paris, about life in Paris, among other things. When the blog is up and running, I'll post its link here.

In the meantime, wherever you are, I hope you are happy and living your dream.

New Caledonia's Local Art and Souvenirs

2007-08-09T14:12:00.000+11:00

"Les couleurs de Tina" is one of our favourite little market stalls in Noumea. A local artist sells his superb island paintings for next to nothing (1000-1500 francs - or EUR 8.38-12.57) here.

He reminds me of all the portrait artists in Montmartre at the Place de Tertre. The difference is yes, his subject (island scenes and animals), and the fact that he is one of the only artists displaying his paintings in a public place (unlike the millions in Paris' Montmartre).

For the little he charges, I would definitely recommend his paintings as souvenirs to take home. They are both original and beautiful - and definitely better than a postcard!

A pirogue on the Ile des Pins

Far-Flung Roots in New Caledonia

2007-08-07T10:30:00.000+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Ah, some of my favourite trees here in New Caledonia: the banyan trees. You'll find these right in downtown Noumea, next to the police station, on "bank street" (where all the banks are). I marvel at them every time I pass them - how is it that one can live with one's roots above ground?

Laurent was kind enough to take photos of them for me - as in some small way they seem to symbolise us and our short visit on the island. Roots far-flung and above ground: I was born in America, but have lived abroad for years; Laurent has lived outside of his native France on many an occasion; Sophie was born in France, but has travelled the world - and is half American; Pablo was born on this island, soon to live in Europe, a mere 22 000 kms away.

We are uprooted by our own choice this time (okay, poor Pablo has to follow along for the moment - and okay, we would all rather stay), but like these majestic trees, we will continue to grow and prosper.

Every time I pass these trees, I thank them for the reminder.

Sophie Update

2007-08-05T10:23:00.000+11:00

Sophie is as wonderful as ever. Here she is with glasses! Yes, her eyes were hurting - and watering and itching and the whole hoo-ha - and so the eye doctor thought we might try glasses. Besides making her look incredibly cool and sophisticated, they have also stopped her eyes hurting. A definite plus!

Grades for the second semester will end on Friday, 10 August. Sophie has been working hard and has an average of 16.2 in French (out of 20). We are still waiting on the other grades, but the official report card will be released after we leave New Caledonia. We have a friend who will fax them to Paris for us.

Cross your fingers for Sophie that she will be able to skip ahead to the next grade in Paris in September. She will have missed the last semester of 10th grade, but she has taken classes on the side in math and physics with the hope that there will be no hiccups in skipping ahead. Sophie would like to specialise in science (BAC S) these next two years - a lot of hard work, but infinitely interesting!

Think of Sophie, too, over the next few weeks - she will have a very brief break from 21 August to 4 September and will be leaving her many friends and terrific boyfriend, Max, on 21 August. New Caledonia is so far away from France!

Of course we know time will fly and we will see Max again soon - won't we, Max? :)

Garden Fun

2007-08-03T10:23:00.000+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

2.5 weeks left in our beautiful house with our beautiful garden on the bay.

Pablo and I are taking full advantage of our last few weeks. Outside nearly every day, we explore the bushes (he climbed the hibiscus last week - and a tree this week, with my help), the hills (sliding down on our hinies), the flowers, the mud and under the car. Oh the fun we have scaring Mommy half to death looking for that special pebble just underneath, right there, just out of reach ... under the middle of the car.

Pablo is in heaven here in our garden. He explores to his heart's content. His little legs have the scratches to prove it, but no matter, that's what being a little boy in New Caledonia is all about.

Harry Potter Arrives in New Caledonia

2007-08-01T08:57:00.000+11:00

"Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows", the last of the Harry Potter series, arrived at our house Monday night, 30 July. Sophie and I jumped up and down, screamed and hollered, shook the house and both Laurent and Pablo thought a catastrophe had struck. But no: pure excitement!

Pre-ordered from amazon.co.uk back in March, it was shipped on the release date, 21 July, and arrived a mere 9 days later! That is fast for mail to New Caledonia!

Sophie is already 100 pages in - and I've read the first chapter (we are switching off: normally we buy 2 copies, but we won't have a lot of room in our luggage when we leave in 3 weeks, so 1 copy it was). I just finished rereading Harry Potter 6 ("Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince") and so my memory is refreshed and full of fun Harry Potter facts.

Now - the question is: how many other HP7s are there in New Caledonia? Must go see if they are selling them at the grocery store ...

New Caledonia's Online Phonebook

2007-07-30T10:41:00.000+11:00

A resource we use all the time here in New Caledonia is its phonebook. It contains helpful maps that show all of Noumea's one-way streets (no other maps seem to do so!), restaurant advertisements (it is hard to know about them otherwise, strangely enough) and of course professional addresses, like doctors and dentists.

I had never been much of a phonebook user (I seem to look everything up on line), but moving to New Caledonia changed things. New Caledonians are from the old offline world - and living here one realises how much faster a simple phonebook is (find it, open it up, figure out the French for "doctor" - medecin- and away you go).

As our phonebooks are packed up and on a slow boat to China (they make great souvenirs - and serve as proof that we were here!), I am now using the online version of the phonebook. Though helpful, it is somehow not as good.

With a paper version, you can see tangential and yet relevant companies and services. Online, you have to know the name of the company or the category -- and the categories are bizarre here. I can never seem to get my category right. Plus, you cannot type in an address to find a company (which is very useful as you may know the street but not the company name).

Maybe the online version just isn't user-friendly enough yet - or maybe I expect too much.

In any case, if any of you are looking for friends, family or companies in New Caledonia, go to www.opt.nc, right-hand side.

If you are looking for a person, type in the last name under "nom", the first name under "prenom", select the city and click on "rechercher".
If you are looking for a company, click on "pages professionelles" and you will be taken to a page where you can type in the name of the company, or a category and the city.

Have fun - and let us know if you find the online version easy or not.

Rock of Contention: Free French and Americans at War in New Caledonia, 1940-1945

2007-07-27T10:23:00.000+11:00

For those of you interested in the American influence on New Caledonia (which was, in truth, a bone of contention with the French government), I recommend Kim Munholland's "Rock of Contention: Free French and Americans at War in New Caledonia, 1940-1945".

The following excerpts are from a review of the book by Robert Aldrich, University of Sydney in H-France Review Vol. 6 (April 2006), No. 47:

Rock of contention

"The Americans, under the command of General Patch and then Admiral Halsey, overwhelmed New Caledonia with their men and machines. The presence of tens of thousands of soldiers and their matériel, the demands they made on local accommodation, the largesse of American dollars and the military exigencies they imposed all grated on the French. De Gaulle and his comrades in London reacted angrily to what they saw as the bossiness of American officers and to what they feared was Washington’s aim of taking over the French colony at the end of the war.

The French governors, in the American perspective, placed obstacles in their way, even to the point that an American official thought that one governor ought to be charged with abetting the enemy.

The French, on their side, sometimes said that the Americans posed more of a threat to New Caledonia than did the Japanese.

In fact, as Munholland justly points out, two priorities clashed: the American determination to take whatever measures necessary to win the war in the Pacific, the French determination to keep control over New Caledonia and to retain sovereignty over their overseas empire."

The American influence on the ground

"The American presence could not but bring great changes, at least temporarily, to New Caledonia. 'One might have said the Martians had landed' one Kanak student is reported as remarking.

The population of Nouméa soared, especially as the Americans put up Quonset huts, built an airport and constructed a “mini-Pentagon” at a beachside suburb. GI’s spent dollars lavishly for food, drink and other entertainments--86 bars opened in Nouméa during the war, and by 1944, the Trade Winds bar (*) alone sold 18,000 beers and 5,100 hamburgers a day ...

Many Melanesians were astounded at the sight of African American troops in positions of responsibility (despite the segregation practiced by the US Army). Many Kanak, and Asians, found employment with the Americans, and were even paid for their work--Kanak had been required by the French to donate free labour for public works projects. Although only a quarter of the Melanesians had held paid jobs before the war, during the American years two-thirds had such an experience.

Similarly, many of the Caldoches benefited from the American presence and the opportunities it provided; the Spanish-born head of the local Communist Party (and a Republican in the Spanish Civil War) sold bootleg liquor to US soldiers for what they claimed were exorbitant prices."

* Readers may recall that we know of someone who worked at the Trade Winds ... Lucie Agez.

My thanks once again to Marc ("Le Cagou") for sharing this with us.

President Marie-Noelle Themerau Steps Down

2007-07-25T10:52:00.001+11:00

The President of New Caledonia, Marie-Noelle Themereau, resigned yesterday, 24 July.

Elected president of New Caledonia in 2004, Ms. Themereau had given plenty of warning she intended to leave politics.

The resignation means that New Caledonia's Cabinet is now dissolved, and its members will form a caretaker government.

Within 14 days, the national congress has to decide which of the country's politicians will make up the new government, and who will hold which portfolio.

The new cabinet then decides who amongst them will be president.

Consequences of the American Presence in New Caledonia

2007-07-23T10:11:00.000+11:00

A bridge built by the US army, Poya, New Caledonia

On 12 March 1942, a large convoy of 17 000 American army soldiers, under the orders of General Patch, landed in Noumea - which then became Pacific headquarters (to stop the advance of the Japanese during World War II).

Airports were built (Tontouta, Gaiacs Plain). Amunition and gasoline filled all possible ports, medical clinics were installed at Anse Vata, Conception, Dumbea, north of Bourail, on the coast and in the far north.

What tremendous upset to the country's daily life! After having endured a period of food rationing, here is what was distributed all over the island:

Chocolate.
Chewing gum.
Ice cream.
And, last but not least, whiskey!

The Americans also introduced modern farming. They cleared land with a bulldozer and planted crops with machines. They also worked with the tribes - who received salaries in dollars for the first time.

In 1944, military operations began to distance itself from New Caledonia. 1946 marked the departure of the last GIs and the return of the volunteers.

- Translated loosely from a text used in a 2005 BEP history-geography exam in New Caledonia. The subject: "What are the consequences of the American presence in New Caledonia?" (Source: Bulletin d'accueil, Vice-Rectorat de la Nouvelle-Caledonie)

Special thanks to Marc ("Le Cagou") for sharing this with us.

New Caledonia: Seven Things We Will Miss

2007-07-21T11:26:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Officially one month left in New Caledonia, time is slipping through our fingers. Two years have flown - where have they gone? New Caledonia is a part of us now and as some readers know, will always be a part of Pablo (who was born here). I think it will always be a part of all of us (and perhaps a small part of all of you).

So what will we miss, you ask?

The sun, the light, the warm weather.
The coral, the shells, the white sands.
The trees, the flowers, the fish and the birds.
The ease of life, the ease of living.
The silence and the wind.
The smiling people, the women who take your baby in the post office when he gets bored, the people who help you in grocery stores.
The blue, blue, blue of sea and sky, the transparent waters of the Loyalty Islands, and the visions of sailboats on Wednesdays at 5:15 pm.

Trekking Greener Grasses: A New Blog on Living in New Caledonia

2007-07-18T11:23:00.001+11:00

Photo by David Giustizia, 2007.

"Trekking Greener Grasses" is a great new English-language blog on moving to, and setting up life, on a tiny island in the South Pacific - yes, in New Caledonia. Authored by Canadian, David Giustizia, with input from his wife Alana and sons David and Nathan (and technical expertise provided by son David), this little blog promises to be an interesting look at what it is like to leave the snowy mountains of Canada for the coconut trees and breezy bays of New Caledonia.

David and his family will be living in Kone - which is about half-way up the island - and is home to about 2000 inhabitants. Their adventures will differ from those you have read here (life in a capital city is far from life in the outback!) ... I wager they will be much closer to what living on a tiny island is really like.

Thanks, David, for taking over the reins of "Sojourn in the South Pacific" - and have fun, everyone, reading about life in New Caledonia, from a different angle.

Ile des Pins: Kunie Scuba Center

2007-07-16T14:08:00.001+11:00

Kunie Scuba Center on the Ile des Pins (Isle of Pines) is a well-run, professional and friendly operation.

My father and stepsister, Livia, dove with the Kunie Scuba Center recently and were very impressed with the care and attention they received along with the professionsalism of the staff.

The dive itself was wonderful - among the best you can find in New Caledonia.

Ile des Pins: Oure Lodge

2007-07-13T10:16:00.001+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Our favourite place to stay on Ile des Pins is Oure Lodge. It is a beautiful hotel on the Baie de Kanumera - made up of bungalows right on the lagoon as well as nested in a tropical garden (pictured above).

Here is what we love about Oure Lodge:

The staff are very friendly and helpful.
Kayaking and snorkelling equipment is provided free of charge.
The American breakfasts are both delicious and generous.
The restaurant provides a range of dishes, including delicious fish.
The bungalows themselves are spacious and come with every comfort (including a bathtub and shower).

If ever you do end up at Ile des Pins in the rain (as we did this last time in June), we highly recommend Oure Lodge.

Ile des Pins: Grey in June

2007-07-10T11:11:00.001+11:00

Photo by James D. Harris, 2007.

One cannot live in New Caledonia and not visit Ile des Pins (Isle of Pines) regularly. It is a heavenly place - far from the hustle and bustle of the modern world.

Characterised by blue skies, towering pines and silky white sand, a visit there returns one - or helps one find one's - home, dream, paradise.

At the end of June, we returned to Ile des Pins to show it to my father and stepsister. Laurent, Sophie and I had been there for the first time in December, 2005. We returned again in October, 2006 with our friend Sheila. This June trip was grey - but still beautiful. We were there during one of Noumea's greatest storms, safe from flying chairs.

Livia and Jim got to go diving, Pablo played in the water, and Laurent and I drank in our last time at Ile des Pins.

Blogging: A Home Away from Home

2007-07-07T10:53:00.000+11:00

Photo by Julie Harris, 2007.

This blog has brought many unexpected pleasures. When I started blogging almost 2 years ago, I did so to try to provide a service for those looking for information on New Caledonia - in English. A secondary (and no less important!) reason was to keep family and friends abreast of our little adventures half way around the world.

Today, this blog has brought me many new friends. I have spent time with them on line and off. My friends Jo and Sean generously hosted us (as well as our friends Anne and Melissa) in New Zealand. Jo and I came to know each other through our blogs. What a marvelous person she is!

I have really enjoyed coming to know the Lucie Agez family, descendants of New Caledonia, living in the United States. Again, marvelous people. Very kind, generous and loyal readers.

I have enjoyed hearing from readers such as "Le Cagou" (Marc) in Liverpool and Dave Thompson in the United Kingdom as well as many others.

I have come to know David and his family from Canada, who will be moving to New Caledonia (Kone) in the fall. They are currently visiting Noumea and it is an immense pleasure spending time with them.

Finally, most recently, a fellow blogger in the United States named Anthony has featured "Sojourn in the South Pacific" on his blog, "The Lives and Times of ... Anthony McCune" (Do go see his blog - it is full of interesting posts and beautiful photographs). Anthony scans literally hundreds of sites and took a generous liking to this little space.

I'd read recently that blogging is about community - connections, linking, commenting, forming a world on line. I have to say I agree.

Thanks to all of you out there who have made this funny online world a "home away from home".

Enjoying New Caledonia's Winter

2007-07-05T10:08:00.001+11:00

Cooler days during New Caledonia's winter (July and August) mean dips below 20 degrees (at night). During the day, however, temperatures can cascade back up as far as 22-26. This last weekend the sun enticed us out for a long walk along the bays (with visiting dad and stepsister, Livia). And nothing, but nothing, stopped Pablo from going for a dip of his own - and a taste or two of the ocean.

All Packed Up and Ready to Go

2007-07-03T12:10:00.000+11:00

Photo by Julie Harris, 2007.

The movers have come and gone. After a month's preparation and 40 boxes later, our container of 10.5 cubic metres is packed, sealed on its way. The boat will take about 8 weeks and our books, clothes, toys and coffee maker will all land on our doorstep in Paris on or around 3 September.

Never fear, we've kept darling Pablo with us, along with Sophie and Tjiba and Laurent.

We will leave New Caledonia on 21 August, via Auckland, Los Angeles, and London. Final destination: Paris, 29 August. On beautiful sunny days such as those we have today in Noumea, we are praying for an Indian summer in France ...

Appreciating the View

2007-06-19T12:12:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Though these last few days have been busy with planning our move to Paris, I stop myself on occasion and drink in the view. We have had a magical time in Nouméa. We have been very, very lucky. We have lived in a house with a garden (Sophie's first ever), we have had the sea right in front of us all along, we have heard nothing but birds (parakeets) and the wind. I am so thankful for the time we have spent here - and for the glorious taste of paradise we have had.

How the Mail Works in New Caledonia

2007-06-15T16:23:00.000+11:00

Have something urgent to send to a major developed country from a tiny island in the South Pacific? Sit back, relax, and above all, take a deep breath.

The fastest the post office can actually guarantee that your mail will reach Paris from Nouméa is six days. New York or Los Angeles or Toronto? Probably eight to ten days.

Our experience is that it takes 10 days to reach Europe and 14 days to reach the United States.

Why is that, you ask? I recently asked and the answer is: because the mail actually only leaves the island on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Saturdays. And if you want your mail to leave, you have to get it to the post office the day before. So, for a Saturday flight, stop by the post office on the Friday (before 15:30 - in Nouméa: for other cities you might have to stop by sooner). If you make the mistake of going to the post office on Wednesday and thinking your mail will leave (same day service - who would have thought of such a thing?), think again. Your mail will leave on Saturday.

Which is why, with the wait time, they can only guarantee six days (via priority service or even a courier service such as DHL). Heavens!

Child Stricken with Strange Shoe Fetish in the South Pacific

2007-06-12T15:45:00.001+11:00

Photos by Julie Harris, 2007.

Young Master Pablo was stricken with an overpowering shoe fetish last week and has not fully recovered. A native of the jewel of the South Pacific, New Caledonia, Pablo learned to walk like the Melanesians - barefoot - everywhere.

Today, a power walker of 14 months, Pablo goes nowhere without shoes - Sister Sophie's shoes, Papa's boots, Mama's flip-flops. As feet are not often wont to co-operate, Pablo has developed the technique of grabbing each foot with both hands and forcing it into the nearest shoe.

Where next, Pablo? And are you sure those boots are made for walkin'?

New Caledonia: Leave Your Silk and Wool Behind

2007-06-10T19:25:00.000+11:00

If you're thinking of moving to New Caledonia for a few months or a few years, "Leave your silk and wool behind!" advises the local dry cleaner.

New Caledonia is so humid that in a short time your leather will show signs of mildew and later mould. Your silk will turn yellow (never to be repaired) and your wool will either sprout funny little holes and/or smell bad for the rest of its life.

I recently discovered a whole closet-full of damaged clothes. I'd left a lot of my wool behind, but had been told that I would need the nicer (silk) pieces for special soirées. Alas, the dry cleaner was only able to save but a few pieces.

"Bring cotton and light fabrics," she advises. "The humidity in New Caledonia will ruin your other European (or American or South American or what have you) clothes.

We live and learn!

RFO Radio Debate on Blogging in New Caledonia

2007-06-08T16:22:00.001+11:00

RFO Radio hosted a short debate on blogging in New Caledonia at noon today. I was lucky enough to be included on the five-person French-speaking panel (thanks to Sébastien of "5 minutes en Nouvelle Calédonie").

We spoke live on the radio here in Nouméa about who visits our blogs, why we do them, how they have changed our lives - and if we should be censored/regulated. The debate was hosted by Thierry Rigoureau, whose questions were pertinent and thought-provoking.

To hear the fifteen-minute debate, click on the file below. Warning: it is in French. Warning number 2: I make a number of silly errors in French! Alas. My thanks to Franck and Denis for recording this and making it available on the web.

My panel members were:

Franck of Calédosphère (one of France's top 20 blogs, Calèdosphére has up to 15 000 visits on a given day).
Calou of Les essais culinaires de Calou.
Eric of NetWizz Jungle Blog.
Sébastien of 5 minutes en Nouvelle Calédonie.

They were all very well spoken - it was a privilege to be seated among them.

Peet's Coffee: An Expensive Addiction in New Caledonia

2007-06-07T10:41:00.001+11:00

Do you have a coffee addiction? Are you considering moving to a desert island in the South Pacific? Hmmm. Do. But you'll pay dearly for your addiction.

One of the wonderful things about New Caledonia is it is devoid of the Starbucks and McDonald's of this world (Nouméa does have two McDonald's, but that's it). It is charming, not being surrounded by big multi-nationals. It is charming, buying locally. It is charming, supporting the local economy.

And then, one day, you want a really strong, really good espresso. Life on a desert island gets just that little bit less charming. Okay, I admit it: I'm a Peet's lover. I discovered Peet's coffee in San Francisco a long time ago, and I have not found a better, stronger, richer coffee since.

On occasion, I order Peet's on line. I just picked up a pound last week, and here is what I paid:

$12.95 for one pound of Peet's Espresso Forte
$0.00 US sales tax
$21.04 in shipping (standard international rate - all they offer as a shipping possibility)
$16.62 local New Caledonian taxes
$50.61 TOTAL (or €37,49 or 4 474 CPF, depending on your currency)

Gulp. I should mention that if you can keep your online order under $33.93, including shipping, there is no tax here in beautiful New Caledonia. My order came to $33.99 - 6 cents over the limit. And so I paid 33% in additional tax.

I've mentioned life being expensive in New Caledonia, and I should know better. But sometimes you cave - for a really good cup of coffee.

Ilot Maitre: A Day Off-shore

2007-06-04T15:21:00.000+11:00

Ten to fifteen minutes away from Nouméa (by boat) lies a little island called Ilot Maitre. We decided to take Sophie to spend the day there a few weekends ago. Laurent, Pablo and I had been once (for my 40th), and we wanted to show Sophie.

I didn't pick the best day. It was cloudy. It rained a little. And Ilot Maitre is about doing water sports (jet ski, canoe, paddle boats, snorkelling, etc.), lying by the pool, and soaking in the sun. When there is no sun, it can be a little sad.

However, we did manage to enjoy ourselves. We had a little visitor: a tricot rayé - who left us well enough alone (Sophie and I did keep our eyes on it, just to be sure).

Laurent and Pablo got in a nap.

Sophie caught some rays in the afternoon when the sun came out.

Pablo and I had a bit of a play.

And we all caught the end of a
beautiful sunset.

Tikiwaka: Stunning Photos of New Caledonia

2007-06-01T14:42:00.000+11:00

If you are looking for images of New Caledonia - from its north to its south, from its islands to the mainland, from its beaches to its mountains, from the air or in the sea, from its people to their customs - you must see www.tikiwaka.com by Sébastien Mérion. If you really want to dream, lose yourself or just escape daily life for a moment, go there now.

Tikiwaka is an image bank that contains thousands of unedited photos of New Caledonia and its people. If you are a professional, looking for high resolution photos of New Caledonia (or South Pacific island life, for example), this site is a boon. If you are an individual interested in seeing what New Caledonia is like, you will not find a better collection of photos. Easy and fast to use, you can search the site by keyword or category.

Sébastien is also working on another project: photos taken from an ultra-light aircraft. To see these breathtaking photos, see: www.tikiwaka.com/editing1/ They remind me of Yann Arthus-Bertrand ... if you look closely enough you'll even find the "Coeur de Voh".

Sébastien Mérion's work is well known in New Caledonia and France. He has been involved in big French network interviews and served as the subject of articles. Recently his beautiful photos were used for the covers of the New Caledonia phone books.

His blog on New Caledonia attracts tremendous traffic for its beauty and professionalism from visitors around the globe. I personally think it is the best blog on New Caledonia out there: www.5minutes-caledonie.com Now we just need to get it translated into English ...

Fall and Winter in New Caledonia

2007-05-30T10:45:00.001+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Our seasons are "turned around" in the South Pacific (depending on your perspective). When all of you in the northern hemisphere are gearing up for summer, we in the southern hemisphere are gearing up for winter, which will be here around the 22nd of June.

Right now it is fall in New Caledonia and the days are still warm and sunny. We do have a little extra yard work (and a little extra help), but other than that it is hard to tell that it is fall.

What is winter like? Winter in New Caledonia is cooler than the rest of the year, but one cannot really call it winter. It is warmer than Paris' warmest days most of the time! Temperatures hover around 20°C, the days end earlier (around 17.30) and start earlier (around 5.30), but we have no snow, we have a little rain, and yes, we can manage without coats and hats and scarves.

Now - must get back to that yard work before someone pokes an eye out ...

Views from Ouen Toro, Nouméa's "Mountain"

2007-05-28T16:37:00.000+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Click on the photos themselves for close-ups.

Nouméa, New Caledonia's capital, offers the most magnificent views - from mountains to beaches, from turquoise blues to deepest greens. One of the places we always take our visitors is "Ouen Toro", Nouméa "mountain". From the top of Ouen Toro you have views down over Nouméa's beaches, Anse Vata and Baie de Citrons. From the other side, you have New Caledonia's mountains.

On a clear day, you can see Nouméa's paragliders and kitesurfers, and Phare Amédée in the distance.

It goes without saying that Ouen Toro is one of our favourite places to visit. Being only 15 minutes away, we enjoy its views regularly (and pinch ourselves, "Is this really a dream?").

Thanks to Ruth for inspiring this post ... this one is for you!

Windsurfing or Kitesurfing Anyone?

2007-05-25T10:03:00.000+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.
Click on the photos themsleves to see close-ups.

Nouméa is blessed with a mighty wind on its beautiful long stretch of beach at Anse Vata. Whenever the wind is up (which is most of the time), you are likely to find a host of windsurfers and kitesurfers. On clear blue-sky days as warm as 30° C, it makes one want to have a go. No?

Video: Nouméa, Isle of Pines and the South Province

2007-05-23T14:17:00.000+11:00

For a quick two-minute overview of Nouméa, New Caledonia's capital; the neighbouring Isle of Pines; and a mention of the Southern Province, take a look at this video from "caledosphere". The commentary is in English and the images are quick and varied.

Colours of the South Pacific

2007-05-21T13:52:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

We are spoiled for colour in New Caledonia. Okay, so we don't have New England's beautiful fall colours (we don't even have a real winter or snow). But the locals sport colours in such a joyous way in New Caledonia. Gone are the blacks and greys of London and Paris and New York. Bring in the oranges, the reds and the bright greens. Bring in the yellows and the blues and the purples.

I am convinced colour changes everything. Colour and sun. The colour and the warm winds of the South Pacific make of this place a veritable paradise. Gone are the worries, the stress and the low-level pain of having to live too much life in too little time. With colour and warm winds, or at least to me, one breathes more deeply, loves more slowly and completely, enjoys what is, instead of worries about what is (or is not) to come.

Happy Monday, everyone.

1st Trimester of Lycée: Done!

2007-05-18T10:46:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

This post goes out to Sophie, our amazing 16-year-old daughter. She just finished her first trimester in "second" (equivalent to 10th grade in the US school system) - which is the first year of the French lycée.

I attended the "conseil de classe" on Wednesday at which all the professors, two parent representatives and two student representatives discuss the global and individual progress of the class. It is an honour to attend one of these meetings: one learns so much.

I was very excited to learn that Sophie is third in her class, almost second. Her overall average is 14.07 (out of 20). Her strongest subjects this trimester were English (19.67) and Earth Sciences (15.50), followed by German (15). Great work, Sophie! We're so proud of you.

Moving to New Caledonia with a Pet

2007-05-16T11:26:00.000+11:00

When we were thinking of moving to New Caledonia in 2005, I had two burning questions. Call me silly, but among the most important to me were:

1. How we were going to bring our cat to the island.

2. Did New Caledonia have high speed Internet access.

Never mind that we did not have a place to live up to about a week before we arrived - and so did not know where Sophie would be going to school (or where to have our mail forwarded) - these details eventually worked themselves out. Figuring out how to bring our cat and get Internet access up and running were other major priorities.

I started the process of exporting our cat to New Caledonia eight months in advance of our move. For animals from Europe, the process is pretty straightforward, though a bit long. There are vaccinations to update, tests to take and proof to provide. Then our cat was assigned her place on the one flight a month. Then she stayed 40 days in a quarantine.

Then while we were still in France, I receive an e-mail to come and pick her up. But we were still in France, arriving a few days later. They couldn't wait. Things got complicated. And then we found a way. An ex quarantine employee could take our cat and keep her until we arrived. It was fun organising this from 22 000 km away (and 10 hours' time difference), but we did. And everything worked out perfectly.

If you are looking for how to bring your pet with you to New Caledonia, I recommend this site: www.spanc.asso.nc/pratique_dossier_quarantaine.asp. The process is very clearly outlined. To translate the page from French, you can try an online translation site, such as http://babelfish.altavista.com/.

As for Internet access, yes, we got that set up too. But it took six weeks from the date we requested it for the phone company to switch it on (we were told this is a normal wait period in New Caledonia). The positive side? Nouméa does have Internet cafés, so with a little patience and a little flexibility we found that despite the obstacles, life in Nouméa was not as hard as we thought it might be.

Wednesdays at 5:15 pm: Sailboats

2007-05-14T10:27:00.000+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2007.
Click on the photos themselves for close-ups.

One of the things I love most about living in Nouméa is the view - which you can get from just about anywhere. We are very lucky to have large sliding glass doors looking out onto the sea (lagoon). For me, this is the definition of heaven. To top things off, every Wednesday at 5:15 pm, we have a parade of sailboats that sail through our little bay. I am generally working at 5:15 pm, but I always look up to see the boats. They remind me of the freedom we all have, to live our dreams on a Wednesday at 5:15 pm.

New Zealand: From the North Island to the South Island

2007-05-10T10:28:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

One of the highlights of our recent trip to New Zealand was a ferry ride from Wellington (on the North Island) to Picton (on the South Island, pictured above). My friend Melissa tells the tale beautifully and provides a host of pictures of the views on her blog at "Petit Sojourn". Suffice it to say the views truly were breathtaking.

In addition, the 3.5-hour journey flew by what with all the entertainment provided onboard. Pablo enjoyed himself immensely, Sophie and I successfully avoided seasickness, Laurent and Melissa went out on deck to take in the views of towering mountains and deep blue waters.

Of all the travel we did on our trip, I think this (Interislander) ferry was our most pleasurable - we heartily recommend it!

Sarkozy Wins 62.9% of the New Caledonian Vote

2007-05-08T10:51:00.000+11:00

New Caledonia made it clear on 6 May that Nicolas Sarkozy was their president: 62.9% cast their vote for him. Sarkozy, France's newly elected president, gleaned his greatest support in New Caledonia. He succeeded on a margin of 26 votes in Wallis and Fortuna, for example, and lost La Réunion to Ségolène Royal.

It is said that Sarkozy won New Caledonia because of his views on New Caledonian independence (and because of the move on the island to remain French). Sarkozy has said that though he understands the wishes of those who want independence in New Caledonia, he does not agree. He will do what he can to ensure that New Caledonia remains a part of France. The far-right National Front branch in Nouméa instructed supporters to vote for "Sarko" though the instructions from Paris were to abstain. They stated that voting for Sarkozy was the only way to stop the pro-independence movement.

New Caledonians will vote on independence some time between the years 2013 and 2018.

Lifou: Amusing Sights

2007-05-06T11:22:00.000+11:00

We just loved certain things about Lifou - trees growing out of houses, "houses" going up over night, the optician's being signposted (when very little else was), and roadside welcome (?) signs. We were struck by the ease of living and the local humour. Could it be that we are simply easily amused? Me thinks it is simply easy and wonderful in Lifou.

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Lifou: The Largest Loyalty Island

2007-05-03T10:52:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Covering 1196 square kilometres (81 km long and 16-24 km wide), Lifou is the largest - and most culturally diverse - of the Loyalty Islands. Bigger than both Tahiti and Martinique, this raised coral atoll is also geographically diverse, with limestone caves, bleached white sand and rich sea life. It does not have any hills or rivers, however.

Lifou is also the most populated Loyalty Island, with some 10 000 inhabitants. 20% of the population live off the island in Nouméa (New Caledonia's capital), though, for employment or education reasons. Tourism is the major industry on the island, though Lifou also exports copra, rubber, vanilla and sugarcane.

The native language on the island is Drehu. French is also spoken as is a tiny bit of English.

Lifou: Picture Paradise

2007-05-01T14:34:00.000+11:00

Photo by Julie Harris, 2006.

Close your eyes and picture paradise for a moment. What colour is it? What do you hear? What do you smell? Who is with you?

Our very own version of paradise is right here in New Caledonia. The photo above was taken in Lifou, on Christmas day. Lifou is one of the Loyalty Islands - islands located just off of New Caledonia's mainland (or grande terre). It takes an hour or so to get there by plane (photo left, just over Lifou), about four hours by boat.

On Lifou, you'll find the perfect combination of beauty, things to do and see, not too many people, friendly islanders, good food and a range of places to stay.

Would we say Lifou is our favourite Loyalty Island? Quite possibly. A very close second is Maré ... but then Ouvéa is gorgeous as well. And there is the lovely Ile des Pins ...

Everyday Things

2007-04-29T15:58:00.000+11:00

Photo by Melissa Kurtz, 2007.

Here we are, a typical day in Nouméa. Pablo and I try to get to the beach or the park or the store for bread every day. Laurent goes to work and Sophie starts school at 7 in the morning. Pablo and I toddle about, get out and about, and Pablo generally goes down for a nap in the afternoon (when I can work at last). Sometimes we even get to the beach for a fully-clothed dip (for Pablo, that is) and a rinse (as above) - but most times we head off to the park for climbing and squeezing and jumping and sliding.

Today it is a beautiful day in Nouméa and everyone in the family has had a long nap while I have cooked apples, answered e-mails, done some online research and looked at the view. Our lives will change dramatically in a few months with our return to Paris. Gone will be the ocean view, the cloudless skies, the warm temperatures, the silence and the birdsong. In with activity, friends, café visits, good coffee, the world's greatest museums, theatre, film, paying parks for Pablo and great shopping for Sophie. Oh - and self-evident, fully functioning faucets. Joy!

What We Loved About Lifou

2007-04-26T10:33:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Some of you may remember that we visited the Loyalty Islands over Christmas and that I have written a little bit about our adventures on Maré and Ouvéa. The last island we visited was Lifou, the largest of the three.

Lifou is the size of Martinique and it is resplendent with things to do and see. Here are a few of the things we loved most about Lifou:

Visiting a vanilla plantation and bringing back some vanilla to make vanilla coffee.
Snorkeling in the north of the island on Christmas day. We snorkeled for well over an hour in deliciously warm water, surrounded by the greatest variety of tropical fish that we have seen in New Caledonia (we've snorkeled on the mainland, at the Ile des Pins and in Maré).
Chatting with the very friendly locals (some of whom invited us to their big Christmas festivities).
Picnicking on the beautiful white, sandy beaches and the turquoise sea.

New Caledonia Votes Overwhelmingly for Nicolas Sarkozy

2007-04-23T09:36:00.000+11:00

49.74% of New Caledonia's voters cast their vote yesterday for Nicolas Sarkozy in France's first round of presidential elections. The 52-year-old son of a Hungarian immigrant, Sarkozy appeals to those who want a stronger, more prosperous, more competitive France. Nicknamed "Sarko the American", Sarkozy vows to put France back to work (all but doing away with the 35-hour work week), lower taxes and guarantee every citizen the ability to own his/her own home.

New Caledonia voted overwhelmingly for Nicolas Sarkozy, more so than any other French overseas territory. Ségolène Royal, the Socialist Party representative, won 23.73% of New Caledonia's vote, followed by François Bayrou at 8.85%, José Bové at 5.88% and Jean-Marie Le Pen at 5.67%. Ségolène Royal won Martinique, St Pierre and Miquelon, and Reunion. For the overseas results, see RFO's site.

Sarkozy will face Royal in the final presidential round on 6 May. A televised debate between the two is planned for 2 May.

New Caledonia's Top Blogs

2007-04-20T09:37:00.000+11:00

Some weeks ago, New Caledonia's top blogs were named following an online survey conducted by a local blogger called "le mouton". 36 blogs were nominated by 29 Internet users. The top five winners, all Francophone, were:

Margouillette - Life in New Caledonia told with a sense of humour and exquisite presentation.
Calédosphère - A regularly updated smorgasbord of content on subjects as diverse as politics, New Caledonia, the Internet and love.
5 minutes en Nouvelle-Calédonie - A beautiful blog full of stunning photos, videos and sound.
Le Cri du Cagou - A collective blog that blends techno with underground art and life in community.
Katuali - Expats talk about daily life, good shopping, activities, etc.

For all 36 results, go to http://lemouton.canalblog.com/archives/2007/03/p40-0.html and scroll to "Et le Calédoblog d'Or revient à..."

Speaking of blogs, this little blog, "Sojourn in the South Pacific" will soon come to an end. We received official notice yesterday that we will indeed be returning to Paris on 21 August 2007 (via the States and the United Kingdom).

If any of you are looking for particular information about life in New Caledonia, do post a comment or send a note. Four more months ... let me know what you'd like to know.

Birthdays are Good in the South Pacific

2007-04-18T09:56:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

"Birthdays are good, GREAT, in the South Pacific," reports one-year-old Pablo Guiader. On 7 April 2007, young Pablo boarded an Air New Zealand flight bound for Auckland with friends and family in tow. Air New Zealand staff were friendly enough to allow the taking of a photo of Pablo and his papa in the cockpit (which pleased his papa no end). Presents before, during and after the flight, Pablo reports that one simply could not have a better first birthday. When he thought all the fun to be had had indeed been had, he met the delightful Melissa and the fun began all over again.

Pablo does state that the highlight of his first birthday was not however the fantastic flight in an aeroplane nor the many wonderful presents, but the MUFFIN his mom finally let him have. Those muffins in New Zealand really are something else!

New Zealand: A Land of Many Faces

2007-04-16T10:45:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

Back from our whirlwind tour of New Zealand, our heads are swimming and are bones are aching. What a fulfilling (and exhausting yet thrilling) trip it was! We took a total of six flights (three in one day on the last day), rented two cars, took two trains, went on two aquataxis and one ferry. We spent more time travelling, me thinks, than visiting New Zealand, but my was it beautiful! If I were to do it again, I would definitely take a whole month to see The North Island and The South Island: there is so much to see and do.

We started with fair weather in Auckland and nearly froze to death in Dunedin. But oh the snow on those mountains, the green green green of The North Island, the sheep on the hills and the train literally on the sea. A trip to remember!

For a blog that tells more of our tales, see our friend, Melissa's, blog, "Petit Sojourn". She took literally thousands of photos (averaging a good 500 a day) and will be posting a fair few of them in the coming days. I'll also try to give you more highlights from our trip over the next month or so.

"Suspicion and Apathy in France's Faraway Land"

2007-04-15T09:07:00.000+11:00

For an interesting article on how New Caledonia is expected to vote in next Sunday's (22 April) French presidential election, see the Financial Times' piece entitled Suspicion and Apathy in France's Faraway Land.

The French state is still fitting 60% of the New Caledonian bill (according to the article) as well as providing the know-how and personnel in the areas of health, education and justice. A journalist at Les Nouvelles Calédoniennes gives Americans the credit for modernising the island.

New Zealand Bound

2007-04-06T14:45:00.000+11:00

We're off tomorrow for a week or so to the beautiful New Zealand. We will be seeing:

Day 1 - Auckland
Day 2 - Rotorua
Day 3 - Wellington
Day 4 - Nelson
Day 5 - Abel Tasman National Park
Day 6 - Scenic train from Picton to Kaikoura
Day 7 - Kaikoura and Christchurch
Day 8 - Dunedin

It is a whirlwind tour of both the north and south islands, with guided maori walks and swimming with dolphins thrown in for good measure.

Will post news and tales of our trip upon our return.

Happy Easter, everyone!

Birthday Boys

2007-04-03T16:24:00.000+11:00

Meet the magnificent Master Dorian who is one year old today! Happy Birthday, Dorian! Dorian and his family moved from New Caledonia to Réunion in August of last year and we miss them terribly. Before they moved, Pablo saw Dorian nearly every day. They nursed together, they strolled together, they cried together and they smiled together. These days Dorian is his usual observant, sophisticated, intelligent self. Pablo is still our resident rugby (or football) player.

Pablo will be one on Saturday (7 April). To celebrate, he will be in New Zealand for his birthday. (We're going along, too.) We're excited about doing a quick tour of both North and South islands and meeting up with our great friend Melissa (she's flying all the way in from LA for the event!) and our friends Jo and Séan in Dunedin. We'll be taking planes, ferries, trains and cars all over New Zealand. Pablo will be a travelling fiend by the end - so will we all. Photos and tales to follow!

In the meantime, Happy Birthday, Boys (including Uncle Clyde who turns 25 today)!

Tsunami Alert in the South Pacific: No Danger to New Caledonia

2007-04-02T17:03:00.000+11:00

The tsunami that devastated the Solomon Islands today brought no damage to New Caledonia. On alert for two hours this morning, the tsunami crashed down on the Loyalty Islands - at 15 cm high, a "vaguelette" or "baby wave".

The public was fully alerted however and inhabitants made for higher ground. By 10:38 everyone was out of harm's way and by 11:15 the alert was over. Everyone could go home.

End of High Cyclone Alert in New Caledonia

2007-03-30T09:18:00.000+11:00

The high cyclone alert for New Caledonia was lifted last night (29 March) at 18:00. Tropical depression Becky petered out as she neared the mainland. We have a few high winds, but the skies are clearing and everyone is back at school. As far as I know, no damage has been done.

Whew!

New Caledonia on High Alert: Cyclone Becky on the Way

2007-03-28T19:49:00.000+11:00

At 19:00 today New Caledonia was put on Cyclone Alert 1 (there are three levels of alert: pre-alert, 1 and 2). Apparently tropical cyclone Becky was 250 km north-northwest of Lifou at that time and travelling at 25 km per hour. It is predicted that she will hit the Loyalty Islands tonight or tomorrow morning.

All schools will be closed tomorrow and we are being encouraged to stay home with our extra bottles of water, candles and basic provisions.

More news will normally be available at 5:00 local time at Meteo France's Alerte cyclonique page.

Ouvéa: The 1988 Massacre

2007-03-26T09:07:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

To return to our tales of Ouvéa and the Loyalty Islands, I thought we should begin with the story of the 1988 massacre in Ouvéa. My thanks for the story go to the Lonely Planet's 4th edition of "New Caledonia", by Leanne Logan and Geert Cole:

"On 22 April 1988, just days before the French presidential election, a group of Kanaks captured the gendarmerie at Fayaoué, Ouvéa's capital, and killed four gendarmes. They took 27 hostages, 11 of whom were released, while the others were transported to a cave near Goosana, in the far north.

Ouvéa was declared a military zone and all communication and transport was cut. More than 300 soldiers were flown to the island and Captain Philippe Legorjus, head of France's elite antiterrorist squad, began negotiations with the hostage takers. During attempts to secure the hostages' release, Legorjus was captured but was freed after coming to an agreement with the group's young leader, Alphonse Dianou, on a date of release for the hostages. It was set for after the presidential election.

On 4 May, three days before the election, Captain Legorjus had two guns and a set of handcuff keys smuggled into the cave. In what was code-named Opération Victor, the military then stormed the cave and reported 'at least 16' people dead, all of them Kanaks. The following day, the figure was revised to 21, including two gendarmes. Later, allegations were made that four of the Kanaks, including the leader, Dianou, and Waine Amossa, a 19-year-old who had been sent into the cave to deliver food, were killed after they had surrendered. It was also claimed that the military tortured and beat civilians from Goosana during the operation. The human rights group Amnesty International took up the case, and France's Minister for Defence later announced that 'acts contrary to military duty have unfortunately been committed'. One gendarme was suspended but no judicial action was taken.

After the cave assault, 32 Ouvéan prisoners, including Djubelly Wea, a local independence movement leader and FULK (Front Uni de Libération Kanak) supporter, were flown to France to face trial. This was despite a previous assurance from the French High Commissioner in New Caledonia that trials would be held in Noumea. Wea was eventually released and the others were given amnesty as part of the Accords de Matignon. Wea returned home to find that his elderly father had died shortly after the hostage crisis. His father had apparently been beater and left tied up in the sun by the military, and was soon regarded as the '20th victim' of the Ouvéa massacre."

Living in New Caledonia: The Pros and Cons

2007-03-22T08:52:00.000+11:00

Photo (site of the new nickel mine) by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

A reader recently asked me about living in New Caledonia. He was interested in my pros and cons. Granted, we have only been here about 18 months, but here goes:

Pros:

It feels like paradise every morning I wake up: everything is so beautiful, pleasant, and easy.
The weather - almost always sunny and warm.
The people - very kind, gentle and warm.
The ease of life - there is no stress in New Caledonia.
Living outside - this is a sports country, not unlike Australia. Everyone does sports!
Great place for kids - they really blossom here. There are parks, activities, groups, lots of outside possibilities and water sports courses for the young.
It is also easy to get outside Nouméa and see the island: there is lots to see and take advantage of!
One is exposed to a new culture: the Melanesians. It is very eye-opening!
An earlier post on the same topic: 7 things I love about living in New Caledonia.

Cons:

It is expensive, yes.
Choices are limited in terms of commerce and health care.
I find the culture somewhat sexist. As an example, I ran into difficulty getting electricity turned on, as my "husband" had to make the request.
I don't always find that getting things done in New Caledonia is easy or efficient. For example, people still pay their bills in person here. There is no such thing as online banking.
English-speaking books and films are few and far between - though there is an English-language library, some films in English, and active associations for English-speakers.
It is hard for spouses to work here (as locals are hired first and foremost).
One has to cope with strikes - like grocery stores go on strike, bakeries, gas stations, garbage collectors. It doesn't happen very often, but when it does, it can be slightly annoying.

But hands down, I LOVE living in New Caledonia and I fully appreciate the opportunity to be here. Now if I could only figure out a way to retire here ...

Another Driver in our Midst

2007-03-16T16:14:00.000+11:00

Photo by Julie Harris, 2007.

A big round of applause goes out to Sophie today. She took the written part of her driving test at 7.20 this morning and sailed right through! She went to class for months (it's a big deal in France - thus New Caledonia, with driving schools and big fees and seriousness all around) and today, all's well that ends well. She now only has to do five more hours with the driving school and then she'll be driving with us. She only has to do 3 000 km of accompanied driving before she goes for the driver's license itself at 18.

Speaking of Sophie Superstar (as she was called in her younger years), she's back from Europe and headed right into high school (lycée). The French only have three years of high school, unlike the four in the United States. She's doing great guns. She's had to specialise (as they all do in France at this age) and so will be doing more intense math and science - she wants to do a science specialisation instead of a literature one, for example. So far, so good. To balance things out, she is taking art as an option, along with German. We've already been to an art gallery (which I did not realise Nouméa even had) and her English teacher has asked her to help the other students in her class. Busy Sophie!

We're taking her out this evening to celebrate today's great win - and perhaps tomorrow she'll celebrate with friends. Bravo!

Wages in New Caledonia

2007-03-16T15:34:00.001+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

With the cost of living being high in New Caledonia, I am often asked if the salaries are commiserate. How are people able to make it here - given that rent, food and clothing are all expensive?

There are several populations on the island. There are the public service employees (the military, the teachers, the administrators, the postal workers, etc.). There are the people who are paid minimum wage (those who work in the food industry, commerce, tourism, etc.). There are the retirees. There are the people who have come from the Loyalty Islands to earn a living to send back to their families.

In general, the public service employees are very well paid in comparison to the average New Caledonian citizen. Those who come for fixed stays often have a very nice salary (higher than they would earn in the "metropole" - mainland France) and some have lodging practically free of charge. They also receive a bonus for being here. The idea is that they should be recompensed for having to living so far away from France. My sense is that the public service employees are among the highest paid. They can easily afford the cost of living here and still have money left over at the end of the month. They generally own cars and boats and their children own scooters and mobile phones.

The minimum monthly wage in New Caledonia is €963.70 (or $1,280.68) . The hourly rate is approximately €6,02 (or $8.00). I know that babysitters are paid approximately €5 an hour, and maids €5,86 an hour. When you look at how much it costs to live in New Caledonia, one wonders how people living on minimum wage make it. Basically, they live frugally. They buy a lot of rice, they shop at the markets, they do not own luxury items, they do not have Internet, they do not go out on outings (many of the locals have never been to the neighbouring islands, much less Australia or New Zealand). They also do not live in big, expensive houses or apartments in town. There are ghettos here, and some build homes out of cardboard boxes or tin siding.

The retirees receive their monthly pensions and then some. They are what we call "indexé". They can receive up to 20-40% more on top of their pensions. Again, this goes back to way back when when it took a week to get here by boat. France esteemed that those willing to travel to, and live in, such a faraway place should be recompensed for such a thing. There is some debate at the moment as to whether or not the indexation should be stopped (it costs France and its taxpayers a pretty penny) - or at least rewarded to those who have worked on the island. For you see, French citizens who come to retire here can receive such an indexation, never having worked here.

Lastly, there are the islanders (from Lifou, Maré and Ouvéa) who come to Nouméa to make a living. My hunch is that they carve out a life for themselves, but it is no picnic. Some of them live in the ghettos - thereby avoiding paying rent and electricity, so as to send more back home. They work as hard as they can and their kids generally stay back on the islands with the tribes. As there is little or no work on the islands, living and working in Nouméa is one of their only choices.

Methinks there is a fifth population - the Caldoches, the island's white local population. They own businesses and nice homes. They've been here a long time and have worked hard for all that they have. They send their kids to mainland France to get good educations and they invest in New Caledonia to keep it thriving.

Cost of Living in New Caledonia

2007-03-13T14:45:00.000+11:00

Photo (our driveway) by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

A reader wrote to me last week about life in New Caledonia. He wanted to know more about what life is like, and in particular if there are any English-speaking schools, for example. After a little research, I can confirm that there are indeed no English-speaking schools on the island. All education is carried out in French. There are language schools to learn English, Spanish, what have you, but there are no public or private English-speaking primary or secondary schools. (Anyone wanting to move here and looking for something to do? ... Start an English-speaking school for the English-speaking population!)

But another question he had was whether or not it really is expensive to live here. I'd written about the high cost of telecommunications here (and expensive bread), but I took another look at our expenses for 2006 and came up with this, for any of you who might be interested:

Average monthly expenses
(for a family of two adults, one teenager and one baby)

Automobile: Gasoline - 64,17 €
Automobile: Parking - 2,33 €
Bills: Cable tv - 83,83 €
Bills: Cell phone - 30,00 €
Bills: Electricity - 100,25 €
Bills: Internet service - 90,25 €
Bills: Newspaper - 4,00 €
Bills: Telephone - 48,42 €
Bills: Water & sewer - 75,00 €
Clothing - 92,75 €
Customs - 6,00 €
Dining out - 166,42 €
Groceries - 769,83 €
Healthcare - 172,75 €
Hobbies: outings - 200,00 €
Hobbies: movies/dvds - 20,00 €
Personal care - 50,00 €
Postage - 22,00 €
Rent (three-bedroom house, 165 m2) - 1500.00-2000,00 €

Want to see the prices in your local currency? Go to XE.com Universal Currency Converter to convert from euros ... and try not to scream when you see how much rent is (and reassure yourself - this is less than what it costs to live in a three-bedroom flat in central Paris!).

La vie est belle !

2007-03-11T10:39:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

"La vie est belle !" exclaims Pablo in New Caledonia - or so we think he would exclaim if only he could talk ... but all good things take time. Pablo has been focussing on learning to walk of late, and not without fruition. This week he took his first steps and reports being thrilled with the possibility of self-locomotion. Life could not be better! He is also pushing around his new car and screaming at the walls for getting in the way. He has not noticed the lack of effect his screaming seems to have on inanimate objects. But like I said, all good things take time.

Tropical Depression Odette

2007-03-07T10:16:00.000+11:00

Some of you will be happy to learn that we do indeed have rain in paradise. It's been raining in Nouméa (and New Caledonia) for six days. Okay, this morning it let up a bit, but rain and thunderstorms are forecast to continue through to the weekend at least. Apparently, tropical depression Odette has come for an extended visit. Be assured: we are in no danger. We just have lots of rain.

Our Internet connection has gone down more than once with the rain and Pablo has grown a little stir crazy, but apart from that, it feels like we are in Brittany again. I remember thinking the rain in Paris was romantic when I first landed from sunny California ... it is all a matter of perspective.

As a side note, for those of you who are in France and who watch the weather on TF1, you can now see the weather in New Caledonia along with your usual weather forecast. You'll either love us or hate us ...

Ouvéa: Bread Delivery

2007-03-02T10:26:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Bread is delivered on Ouvéa as it is in other remote parts on New Caledonia's mainland. What with bakeries few and far between, short opening hours, and even fewer roads to get to the few bakeries open for an hour here and there, bread is delivered to little boxes such as these. At first I thought this box was for the mail, but no. It is for the bread (fresh baguettes) - which no French man or woman can live without - delivered daily.

Ouvéa: Underwater Marvels (and Monsters)

2007-02-27T14:09:00.000+11:00

The one day we got out to go snorkelling in Ouvéa, the waters were rough at Mouli Bay. But Laurent couldn't resist and though he nearly got swept away by the surf, he had the immense pleasure of swimming with a ray - a bit like this one:

Video by tiptup29

Thank goodness he did not see this (also found and filmed in Ouvéa) - a leopard shark:

Video by tiptup29

But most surprising of all ... a parrot fish (also found and filmed in Ouvéa):

Video by djenemoa

Ouvéa: A Deserted Island

2007-02-24T18:15:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

In addition to its untold beauty (sands so white and silky, seas so aquamarine, skies so blue, one has the impression one has died and gone to heaven), Ouvéa feels deserted. True, during the day one does not see very many people (as it is scorchingly hot and bright - at least in December), but there are not many people to see. At the 2004 census, there were 4 359 inhabitants (according to Wikipedia).

As there is little work on the island, many Ouvéans live in Nouméa and return home for the holidays. What with one police station, one bank, four gas stations, one pharmacy and two dispensaries, services are also fairly limited.

Ouvéa makes Nouméa look like a teeming mecca.

Ouvéa: Food and Water

2007-02-22T10:06:00.000+11:00

Food and water was in limited supply on Ouvéa. Certainly not at the four-star Hôtel Paradis d'Ouvéa - it was always possible to order lunch or dinner there, though at rather costly prices. I mean that as we were on the southernmost part of the island, without a car, our options were limited.

Photo by Laurent Guaider, 2006.

We did have the "Snack Fassy" (pictured above) down the road (within walking distance) which was run by locals. The Kanak ladies served up one menu a day (usually something like chicken and root vegetables with, say, a papaya salad) and that was it. We ate there on the first day. That night I was terribly ill with a tummy bug. Unfortunately, I was ill for the entire week.

It was wonderful that we had a great hotel where I could rest and stay cool, but it was not the greatest for Laurent, Sophie and Pablo. Poor Laurent had to get a ride to a pharmacy (the only one, about 20 minutes away by car), take care of Pablo, try to entertain us while I felt under the weather, spend lots of time at the pool. We weren't able to explore the island as we normally would have done. Sophie got sick later in the week and Pablo got his first fever at the end of the week as well.

All of this could have been due to the water that I drank from the tap on the first day. Not a good idea on Ouvéa (we quickly switched to bottled water). As Ouvéa does not have any rivers or reservoirs (except for a few water holes), fresh water is practically non-existent. In fact, the water on Ouvéa is desalinated sea water. When we returned to Nouméa we learned that the desalination plant on the island had had problems and that the water wasn't good. The problem has long since been fixed.

It could also have come from something I ate at the hotel restaurant. We think Pablo came down with something at the end of the week as I was breastfeeding, and that Sophie got a bad egg somewhere. Who knows?

The good news is that we got in lots of rest and games of Uno!

Ouvéa: The Paradis d'Ouvea Hotel

2007-02-20T10:12:00.000+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

There are not many lodgings on the tiny island of Ouvéa. "Paradis d'Ouvéa" is purported to be the only hotel. As it is a four-star, it is on the expensive side (villas run from €288 to €636 a night and bungalows are €436 a night). But the service and the beauty of the hotel are truly astounding. Above you'll find a view of a gazebo one can rent for a private lunch or dinner with a private waiter.

We stayed in the Paradis d'Ouvéa hotel for four nights (we were able to get a big discount on our stay - which made it possible; had we not had the discount, it would have been impossible for us to afford four nights) - from 18 to 22 December.

Located on Ouvéa's southernmost island, Mouly, it is one of the most beautiful spots on Ouvéa. The hotel opened in late 2000 and is partly funded by Japan. The 15 spacious bungalows, many right on the beachfront, have an Oriental influence and a strong Japanese clientele. There is a pool (with a waterfall) along with a large restaurant that serves haute-cuisine.

Ouvéa: The Most Beautiful Loyalty Island

2007-02-16T13:51:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

To return to tales of our tour of the Loyalty Islands over Christmas, we'll turn now to Ouvéa, the most beautiful of the islands. Ouvéa is known as one of the most exquisite coral atolls of the Pacific Ocean. Hard to beat, Ouvéa sports a 25 kilometre-long stretch of unbroken white beach, an enormous aquamarine lagoon and a peacefulness unknown in this world. The island is 35 km long and in some places less than 40 metres wide. A single road runs north to south, most times along the long stretch of beach, through coconut groves - and at other times along the very edge of the deep blue Pacific Ocean.

Ouvéa gets its name from the Wallisian word uvea, meaning "island far away". Historically, it has seen many turbulent times, divided between Melanesian and Polynesian cultures as well as by religion. In the late 1980s, violent political events shook Ouvéa, the tremors of which were felt all over New Caledonia and France.

Will You Be My Valentine?

2007-02-14T15:54:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2007.

So what do you say, will you?

This particular post goes out to all of Pablo's worldwide admirers, and in particular to Sophie, who is in London, on her way to Paris. Pablo is slightly anxious for her to come home so that he can show off his two new teeth, his newly acquired balance, his unworn shoes and his ability to put food (in addition to rocks) in his mouth, all by himself. "Have a safe trip, home, Sophie! Hurry!"

Pablo would also like to say a special hello to Ben in Stonybrook University Hospital. Ben is a wonderfully inspiring young man who has just gone in for his last round of chemotherapy. Pablo is sure all of you join us in sending him lots of good wishes for a speedy recovery.

Happy Valentine's Day, everyone!

Basic Tourism Information about New Caledonia

2007-02-09T10:42:00.000+11:00

Billed as "where the French Riviera meets the South Pacific" by a tourism site for Australians, New Caledonia is a veritable jewel.

If you are looking for some basic answers to some basic questions about New Caledonia, I can suggest "Frequently Asked Questions - New Caledonia" as well as "New Caledonia Tourism Information & Facts". Not only will you find out whether or not we speak English, but if the tap water is safe to drink, if New Caledonia is expensive, how far it is away from Australia and whether or not one can surf here. More importantly, you'll learn whether or not your mobile phone will work in New Caledonia and if you need a passport, visa or vaccinations to visit.

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2005.

Happy 60th Birthday to the Secretariat of the Pacific Community

2007-02-06T14:40:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2005.

The Secretariat of the Pacific Community, an intergovernmental organisation located in Nouméa, celebrated its 60th birthday today. An early-morning flag-raising ceremony at its headquarters (above) marked the start of celebrations.

The SPC was founded in 1947 shortly after World War II by Australia, France, New Zealand, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom and the United States to coordinate aid to the region. Today, it is a thriving, bilingual organisation with around 340 staff, a large number of whom come from the Pacific Islands. SPC's role is to provide technical advice, training and research to its island members in areas such as public health, sustainable development of land and marine resources, and social issues (women, youth and culture). A strong focus of this work is to build the skills and capability of its members in these areas.

World's Most Expensive Baguettes

2007-02-04T13:58:00.000+11:00

Last Wednesday, we paid €118.49 (or $153.18 depending on your currency) for two French baguettes. Now I know things are expensive here (a recent report about the perks of retiring to Nouméa put the cost of living at 40% higher than Paris), but this is asking a bit much.

When Laurent told me how much we had gone over our weekly budget (and I had looked at what he had come home with), we pulled out the receipt. How in the world could two baguettes cost over €100? Mind you, we have friends who spent €25 on a round of Camembert when they first arrived. It's an easy mistake to make.

Turns out the cashier had keyed in 70 francs (the real cost of a baguette: €0.59) twice - which makes "7070" and then multiplied 7070 by 2 - which equals 14140 francs, or €118.49. When Laurent went back to the store and presented the receipt and asked what had happened, the manager giggled. She immediately detected the error. She showed it to a colleague. They giggled. She took it to the cashier. They giggled some more. Apparently this was most hilarious. The cashier asked if Laurent hadn't noticed that the bill was a bit high. Yes, he responded, but he had a baby in arms, the groceries to pack up, and a looming mealtime for aforementioned baby.

To make a short story long, we were reimbursed for the mistake and all is well. But it reminded me that when we had arrived, we had been warned to always check our receipts and our change: strange things were known to happen. This being said, this is the first time something like this has occurred - well, as far as we know ...

A New Franco-American in Caledonia

2007-01-31T15:36:00.000+11:00

Today was a big day for the little fella above. Pablo Killian Guiader met with US Consul Debra Towry here in Nouméa to apply for a Consular Report of Birth Abroad along with a US passport. His mother had been preparing for weeks, it seemed. She'd spent hours pouring over old passports, electronic calendars, journals and letters, sending notes to friends, family and past employers, and generally being an all around boor to all and asunder. The main task at hand was the preparation of a list of all the precise dates Pablo's mother had been in the United States since her birth - along with all the dates and locations of her life abroad. With proof, thank you.

Pablo would like to personally thank US Ambassador Larry Miles Dinger for having sent US Consul Debra Towry to Nouméa. As New Caledonia does not have an American Embassy, his parents had been organising a trip to Fiji (the presiding US embassy for the region) - and as there had been a coup recently in Fiji, things were looking a bit iffy. Particularly when Pablo's parents learned that the French Minister of Foreign Affairs had warned French citizens not to travel to Fiji. What to do?

Our thanks also go to Consul Towry who was both kind and helpful. Laurent was impressed with her French - and Italian! And Julie with her clarity and professionalism. Thanks, too, to the staff at the Suva Embassy who replied to the numerous questions Pablo's mother was wont to ask.

Finally, congratulations to Pablo, our newest Franco-American in Caledonia!

Video: Life in Nouméa

2007-01-30T16:11:00.000+11:00

Have any of you ever wondered what we do all day in Nouméa (known as "paradise on earth" to some)? True, it is a sporty capital, so there are some who kite surf, rollerblade, windsurf, run, walk. There are others who see the sights, shop, get on and off the cruise ships. For a taste of "Nouméa in September", see this two-minute video by YouTube member, helyonmandi (remember to turn up the volume on your machine to get the full effect):

Many thanks to helyonmandi.

Maré: Last Day

2007-01-27T18:20:00.000+11:00

We ended our trip in Maré with a day on the beach and at the pool. Laurent went kayaking, Sophie listened to music, Laurent and I got some great snorkelling in (right at our hotel - highly recommended at Nengone Village), and Pablo hung out with his new sand toys. When the novelty of his new toys wore off, Sophie stepped in with a dance on her hip and a song. Great (relaxing) fun was had by all.

Would we recommend a visit to Maré if ever you get to New Caledonia? Yes, definitely. Is it often visited? No. Why? Probably because there are so many other lovely places to visit in New Caledonia. But, that's no reason - if you can find the time - to skip Maré. It is a wonderful place to both relax and discover.

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Maré: A Long Walk Through the Forest

2007-01-25T14:38:00.000+11:00

Have you ever read a guidebook, followed its instructions and wished you hadn't? On our second day in Maré, just after our half-day tour of the island, we decided to walk along the beach to a secluded cove: Pede Beach. It is reported to be the best on the island for snorkelling.

The guidebook mentioned that it was an easy and pleasant walk from our hotel - just along the beach. So off we went. I was sure from what I had read that it would be 20 minutes, maximum. Well, 17 verses of "Old MacDonald Had a Farm" and 2 hours later, Sophie and I were convinced that we would be camping in the forest that night - along with all the other island folk. Mind you, this was not a camping ground we were traipsing through! Islanders had simply mounted temporary homes out of palm fronds (yes, palm fronds!) and scraped together whatever cooking utensils they could find.

City Sophie and Slightly Worried Mother Julie trailed slower and slower behind Laurent, the intrepid soldier. If you ever have to feature in "Survivor" or "Koh Lanta", Laurent is your man. He'll get you through!

After several hours we did find our little cove. Exhausted, we managed to thank our lucky stars, not for guidebooks or mobile phones, but for our determination and optimism, as waning as it sometimes was. Everyone plopped down (except Pablo of course) and swore never to trust a guidebook again.

How was the snorkelling? Well, okay. True, there was no wind - but as it was by then the end of the day, there was also little sun, and thus little visibility. Alas. We laughed.

And how did we get back to the hotel? We took the road back and hitched a ride!

Photos by Laurent Guaider, 2006.

Maré: As in Death, Life

2007-01-23T09:45:00.000+11:00

Besides its wild and remote qualities, one of the things I loved about Maré was its simplicity. By this I mean the lack of artificial barriers between good and bad, life and death, land and sea. There were no complications, no analyses, no complexities. Everything on the island was what it was.

An example of this is the Maréan burial grounds (pictured). There are no looming tomb stones to mark an end or a separation between life and death. Instead, the Maréans are buried surrounded by living plants, colour, natural wooden fences, towering palms and the sea. One would say that their burial grounds are a place of celebration, of vibrancy and of all things, life.

My thanks to the Maréans for letting me share a photo of this sacred place with you.

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Video: Snorkelling at the Phare Amédée

2007-01-21T09:22:00.000+11:00

Regular readers may know that while living in New Caledonia, I've come to love snorkelling and count it as one of my all-time favourite activities. Just last week we were at the Phare Amédée again, and though I was tied up with Pablo, Laurent and the girls got to go snorkelling. Last Sunday, we also went to the Ile aux Canards, where this time, I got to swim with some of the largest fish I've yet to see in New Caledonia.

Why all the excitement over fish? See the two-minute clip below on "Snorkelling at the Phare Amédée" by YouTube member, bivele (click on the arrow and turn up the volume on your machine). The clip starts with one of our famous sea snakes (tricots rayés), moves onto the adventures of a sea turtle and shows off our beautiful coral, angel fish and more.

Many thanks to "bivele"!

Maré: Warrior's Leap

2007-01-20T19:22:00.000+11:00

To continue our tour of the Loyalty Islands, which we undertook over Christmas 2006 ...

Legend has it that a warrior, harassed by his enemies, leaped across this gaping 5-meter wide crevice in the cliff that dominates Allier Bay in Maré. All of his enemies fell to their deaths as they attempted the same feat.

A terrible fear of heights kept both Sophie and I from trying our luck, though Laurent most likely would have tried in his younger days.

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Sophie and Pablo Up and Out

2007-01-17T09:11:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

We interrupt our tour of the Loyalty Islands with this newsflash on Sophie and Pablo.

I have been amiss on the blog as of late as Sophie has had her exchange partner from New Zealand visiting for the last ten days. Nicky was an absolute delight - it was fun to see how other anglophone (English-speaking/culture) teenagers view and operate in the world. We came away thinking that New Zealanders are wonderfully cool and easy and spontaneous and full of life. She was a true pleasure to be around. To give Nicky a feel for New Caledonia, we took the girls camping in Poé (two and a half hours north), we took a day trip to Phare Amédée (home of the famous sea snake story) and spent an afternoon at Ile aux Canards (great snorkelling). Of course there was shopping and afternoons spent at the Baie des Citrons as well.

Now in a few days, Sophie is off to Europe for four weeks! Ack! We are running around getting everything ready for her trip to Paris and London - and I am missing her already. Her summer break has flown by - what with ten days in Loyalty Islands, ten days of her in New Zealand, ten days of having her exchange partner here and now she is up and out across the world for a month. What a charmed life she leads!

Meanwhile, Pablo is up and walking around the room (holding onto furniture), any room, whenever he can. He has also taken to waking at 5 in the morning and talking (loudly) until nap time between 8.30 and 9.00. He has much to say. He is still not sleeping through the night ("Sacrée Mary", as Laurent says - as our friend Mary predicted that Pablo would not sleep much before he was born) and both Laurent and I wonder where he gets his energy. Pablo is nonetheless one of the world's happiest babies, so no complaining here!

Maré: Its People

2007-01-14T09:03:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

We were lucky enough to meet and talk with some of the locals in Maré (Maréans) - not so in Ouvéa (which was where we went next). We found them to be very warm and welcoming - but not warm and welcoming in the touristy kind of way. They were genuinely open and willing to share their culture, not for money but out of pride for their island and their way of life. Unlike on the main island (Grande terre) of New Caledonia, the Maréans (largely Melanesian) control how things are run on the island (which is also true on the other Loyalty Islands and Ile des Pins). Only about 2% of the population on this island are French - so you really feel as if you are in direct contact with the locals, the minute you arrive.

On our tour day of the island, we spent a morning with our Kanak guide above (click on the photo for a larger image). Not only did he take us all over the island, but he talked about what his life was like. As it was the holiday season, and Santa Claus had arrived by boat the night before, and there had been fireworks and parties into the night and early morning, he was a little worse for the wear. (Kanaks like to party in a big way - we saw a number of them flat out from all the partying during our tour and our guide explained that all the shops were closed, because after they had been drinking, they could get aggressive and either walk out with the shops' merchandise or get into nasty fights ...)

In the photo above, our guide had just taken us down into an enormous cavity that led to an underground water hole. He explained that the names we saw on the cave walls were the result of competitions - the men like to climb the walls (as high as they can go) and then carve their names in the walls. Mind you, our guide was about 35 years old. When I asked if women and children came down into the water hole, he said that they all do. They all love to swim there - and that the more women there are, the higher the men climb.

Throughout our tour, we saw children playing in the dirt roads. We are accustomed to seeing them bare foot (you often see them running and playing soccer bare foot in Nouméa), but due to the heat, they were also entirely naked. Smiling, laughing, they would continue their games in the street despite the approach of a dusty Peugot 206 and look after us with a vague (and passing) curiosity. They made me hanker after their total simplicity and unshakable "joie de vivre".

Maré: A Tour of the Island Begins

2007-01-07T11:10:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

To continue our story of our tour of the Loyalty Islands, we spent the second day (16 December) in Maré touring the island with a local guide. We started here, at a picturesque (and often photographed) corner of Maré, not too far from our hotel (Nengone Village). A stone's throw away, you can get down into the cove where you have one of the nicest beaches (la plage de pede) and snorkelling locations in Maré.

We then drove to the natural aquarium (pictured below), which is an outdoor inlet fed by the sea flowing under the coral formations. It provides a wonderful refuge for fish and turtles and it is forbidden to swim or fish there. We were thoroughly impressed with the number of fish you could see and the water's transparency.

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Stay tuned for the rest of the tour ...

Video: A Typical Drive in Nouméa

2007-01-04T09:17:00.000+11:00

Would you like to see a typical drive in Nouméa? If so, you'll enjoy the three-minute clip below. (Click on the arrow and turn up the volume.) This clip is brought to you by YouTube member, ipiroro. This is his drive to work: you'll love where he works.

The drive begins on Promenade Vernier and continues past Ouen Toro past "The Roof" (a great restaurant on the water" to the tourist office (look for the hut) and the Secretariat of the Pacific Community (not shown, but it is across from the tourist office) at Anse Vata. Nouméans will recognise the drive easily and those at a distance will remember it fondly (I am thinking in particular of Caitlin and Xavier).

Laurent runs this stretch, Sophie is learning how to drive here, and this is my favourite bit to drive with Pablo (we do it at least once a week). Doesn't it make you dream, smile, want to visit?

My thanks to ipiroro.

Maré: A Great Place to Rest and Relax

2007-01-03T17:22:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

As we had an early departure for Maré (by early I mean the taxi to the airport arrived at 5 am) and thus an early arrival, Laurent, Sophie, Pablo and I spent the first day resting and relaxing. The last few days leading up to our departure had been a little busy, what with Sophie taking her big exam (brevet), Laurent finishing up work, and me trying to finish up a guide I am working on (which I am still working on!) and getting everything ready for our trip. Pablo was busy learning how to pull himself up to wander around whatever room he happened to be in.

Maré, being quiet and secluded, was the perfect place for R&R. The first day, we settled in, napped, visited the hotel pool (pictured above) and went for a walk on the beach and a roll in the sand (Pablo and I). We also just sat on our terrace and enjoyed the view:

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Happy New Year from New Caledonia!

2007-01-01T11:02:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

All of us in New Caledonia wish all of you wherever you are a VERY HAPPY and HEALTHY 2007. One of the first in the world to celebrate the New Year, along with Sydney and Auckland, Nouméa's skies lit up at midnight as fireworks painted the sky. From Ilôt Maitre to Baie des Citrons to Anse Vata and beyond, it seemed as if all the world were happy with the dawn of a new year. Boats, little and tall, tooted their horns, cars beeped out their drivers' joy and laughter and popping champagne filled the air in Nouméa's early hours. All the best for a magnificent and memorable year!

Maré: The Second Largest Loyalty Island

2006-12-31T15:14:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

We began our tour of the Loyalty Islands in Maré (pictured above) on 15 December. We stayed three days and nights in a little village called Cengeite (a coastal village in the southwest). The second largest Loyalty Island, Maré is only 42 km (26 miles) long and 16-33 km (10-20 miles) wide.

From the start, we were impressed by Maré's wildness. I love the west of Ireland and Brittany for their unspoiled beauty. And I used to think that Ile des Pins was cut off from the rest of the world. We found Maré to be even more remote.

There are no signs indicating where you are or how to get to various sites. There are few cars, a handful of tiny hole-in-the-wall grocery stores, a few gas stations, a medical centre (but no hospital), a pharmacy, one bank (where the ATM is located inside - and thus only available the few hours the bank is open) and two post offices. There are some 6 900 people of mainly Melanesian heritage (less than 2% of the population is of European ancestry). They make up some 20 tribes who speak one tribal language (Nengone) along with French.

Despite its wildness and its remoteness, we found plenty to do on the island - tales of which are soon to come...

Ororé lu ("See you tomorrow" in Nengone).

The Loyalty Islands: A Must See

2006-12-29T16:43:00.000+11:00

We're back from our 11-day tour of the Loyalty Islands with the best of news. You must absolutely see them. If ever you get the chance to get to New Caledonia, you really must try to see Maré, Lifou and Ouvéa - in addition to Ile des Pins. We spent 3-5 days on each island and I'll spend the next few posts telling you all about our adventures and sharing Laurent's and Sophie's fabulous photos.

As a teaser, Maré is the wildest, most desolate (and thus the most charming) of the three. Ouvéa is truly a paradise (the photo above was taken in Ouvéa). And Lifou is unmatched for its tropical fish and coral. I thought "Grande Terre" (the main island of New Caledonia) was stunning. The Loyalty Islands win, hands down.

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Gone Snorkellin'

2006-12-13T12:01:00.000+11:00

We're off for a tour of the Loyalty Islands, a group of islands 100 km off the eastern coast of New Caledonia. For ten days, we'll be snorkelling in Maré, Ouvéa and Lifou. We'll also be visiting the islands' many caves and water holes, eating fresh seafood and enjoying the silky flour-like sand on Ouvéa's 25 km stretch of beach. Rumoured to be the "island closest to paradise", we'll take plenty of photos of Ouvéa to share with you upon our return. Happy Christmas to one and all!

Christmas Trees of the South Pacific

2006-12-11T14:25:00.000+11:00

Photos by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

These photos were taken just down our street the other day. Such is the weather here in Nouméa in December. And these fabulous red trees are in bloom at this time of year: they are everywhere! I think of them as the Christmas trees of the South Pacific - but they are called "flamboyants". I am yet to find the English-language name. I'd be grateful if anyone knows ...

And while we are at it, we'd like to wish all of you a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! To all our family and friends, to all our faithful readers, may this holiday season be chockful of warmth, laughter, fun and love (lots of it)! Gros bisous - Julie, Laurent, Sophie and Pablo

Some Good News: Sophie and Pablo

2006-12-08T09:21:00.000+11:00

Tired of the cold, the snow or grey, rainy days? Tired of news of coups d'états, French elections, the war in Iraq and the irreversible effects of global warming? Stressed out with Christmas preparations and deadlines, bad health news or too much fatigue at the end of the year? Well, we have some GOOD news: all is well in New Caledonia and our little family on this little island.

Pablo turned eight months old yesterday. He is crawling all over the place and pulling himself up and trying to walk everywhere. He sports four teeth and is eating yummy food. Personal favourites include carrots and rice, pear and yogurt. He loves to move, move, move and climb all over (and undress) Sophie. He also loves to visit the garden with Papa and go for walks to the sea with Mom.

Sophie has finished school for the year, but has a big exam on Monday and Tuesday. It will determine if she gets into high school (of course she will!). She has to score at least 13 points. No problem! She is also going to driving school and has already had a test run. She did great! She will also be going to New Zealand on an exchange programme just after Christmas. She is getting very excited! Shopping, shopping, shopping ...

And what with Christmas on the way, life is really rather happy in our little corner of the world. Here's wishing all of you a huge big helping of happiness and gratefulness for all the good news you have in your lives as well!

Fiji: Prime Minister Deposed in Military Coup

2006-12-06T08:26:00.000+11:00

Fiji's military overthrew the government yesterday following a year-long power struggle between Military Commander Frank Bainimarama and Prime Minister Qarase. Bainimarama had long threatened to topple Prime Minister Qarase's government, which won a second five-year term in May, calling it corrupt and too soft on those behind Fiji's last coup in 2000. Today, the Prime Minister was flown out of the capital to safety.

The fourth coup in 20 years, Fiji is likely to face international sanctions. The United States has also temporarily suspended $2.5 million in aid and UN Secretary-General Kofi Annan has condemned the takeover.

We've been following all of this news pretty closely for the last week and had been hoping a coup would be avoided. Last night we learned that the coup was underway. Is that why Pablo slept so poorly, I wonder? Alas. Let's hope for a speedy and long-lasting resolution for Fiji.

For more news on this topic, see Google News, which provides the news as it is released from a number of sources.

Hienghene's Fantastic Rock Formations

2006-12-04T14:17:00.000+11:00

One of the highlights of our trip up to Hienghene was the famous rock formations. "Le Poulet" is the most well known. Our guide explained that they are all "calcaire" - which I assume to mean calcium deposits.

Some are the size of people, some the size of houses, some the size of mountains. My favourite is pictured here. Can you tell what it is?

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

World's Greatest Blog on New Caledonia

2006-12-01T10:27:00.000+11:00

"Kalendécran" from 5 minutes en Nouvelle-Calédonie

If you are interested in New Caledonia in any way, shape or form, I heartily recommend "5 minutes en Nouvelle-Calédonie", a French-language blog that contains the most beautiful photos of our fair island, videos, podcasts, free screensavers (as pictured above) and electronic postcards. The blog aims to give you a daily five-minute dose of life in New Caledonia - from the sun, the bright skies, the amazing blues to the breathtaking views. For my French readers, this will be a haven for you. For my English readers, do go take a look at all the photos and videos and postcards. Truly wonderful stuff! Bravo to the team behind "5 Minutes in New Caledonia".

Care for a Swim, Dear?

2006-11-29T19:45:00.000+11:00

Photo by Laurent Guiader, 2006.

Meet one of our newfound friends, at the Club Med in Hienghene. Imagine our surprise (and enchantment) when two deer wandered up and sat down beside us at the pool our first afternoon in Hienghene. Much better than a "spider who sat down beside her" of Little Miss Muffet fame!

In early November, readers might remember that we drove up north to Hienghene, an absolutely stunning site on the sea, best known for its enormous rock (calcium) formations (such as "Le Poulet" or "The Chicken") and its "Club Med". We stayed at the Club Med for a night or so to see what it was like.

Originally, we were to stay in a traditional Kanak "case" (or hut) at the "Club Med". But upon discovering mice droppings on two of the beds, we lucked into a bungalow that was both clean and cool (yes, it is hot here in November) - and had the added advantage of having a bathroom and shower included. Though we thoroughly enjoyed our stay, we weren't convinced that this was a real Club Med ... apart from the deer!

Delays at Goro and Aquaculture Increasingly Important for New Caledonia

2006-11-27T19:22:00.000+11:00

I read two wholly unconnected articles recently and wondered about a possible link between the two.

The first concerned the new delays and increased costs for the nickel mine that is being built in southern New Caledonia. Inco, the company behind Goro Nickel, has a new head. At a press conference in Rio de Janeiro (yes Brazil took control of the Canadian company and its Goro project last month), it was announced that the mine would not start producing nickel until the end of 2008 and that costs will rise to US$3 billion. See Costs at Inco's Goro nickel project soar.

The second article concerned the importance of aquaculture in the Pacific region in coming years. Dr. Tim Adams, who heads the Secretariat for the Pacific Community's Marine Resources Division, told Pacific government representatives at a recent meeting of SPC's governing body that aquaculture "will become increasingly important for exports and food security. As wild stocks come under increasingly rigorous management (...) the economic balance will tip further in favor of aquaculture." See Aquaculture increasingly vital for Pacific.

Now, the Goro Nickel mine is purported to present a tremendous threat to marine biodiversity. In addition, I'd read that there were plans for the development of large-scale industrial coastal shrimp aquaculture operations in the area.

Will Goro Nickel really be for the good of New Caledonia and the Pacific region, I wonder?

(And a thank you to Dr. Adams for his recent post on this blog.)